A De-Soldering Primer 
By
Wayne Burdick, N6KR
Removing resistors and other parts from
double-sided boards is easy and 
 fun. After years of careful analysis of my own
technique I have documented 
 the process. I start with technique #1, below;
if that doesn't work, I try 
 #2, etc. Good luck! 
1. Turn the board over. With one hand
behind your back, a wry smile, and 
 the confidence of a pet surgeon, simply heat
the lead in question and 
 listen for the pleasant sound of the component
hitting the work bench. 
2. Well, that *would* be too easy,
wouldn't it. Staying with the solder 
 side for now, locate a large solder sucker
(the larger the better; it 
 should frighten smaller pets when brandished).
Heat each joint and deftly 
 suck out the solder with a single satisfying
Thwop! Listen for the part 
 hitting the bench. 
3. Didn't fall out, eh? No problem:
rummage in that tool bin for a shiny 
 new roll of solder wick. Crack open a beer,
too, and take a generous swig. 
 Wedge that wick in between the lead and pad,
heat until you see the solder 
 flow nicely onto the wick, and pull it out of
the way just in time to see a 
 beatiful, black annular ring around your
component lead. Nudge each lead 
 with your iron and keep your fingers crossed. 
4. OK, so you've got a tough customer:
small lead, hole just barely 
 larger, and a bit of off-color solder that
can't be bothered with any of 
 the usual techniques. Have another sip of that
brew. Vigorously flip the 
 board back to the component side. Now grip the
lead professionally with 
 your most elegant long-nose pliers and hold on
tight. Give it a playful 
 yank, then pray. Should pop right out. 
5. Damn. Finish the beer and get out
your brutal, 8" electrician's 
 long-nose. Grab the component with gusto this
time, buster, then tip the 
 board up at a 45. Turn up your soldering
station to max and heat that baby 
 up on the backside. Pull down hard with the
pliers. 
6. No go? Hmmmm -- let's get serious.
Put the board up directly on its 
 edge and hold it in place vertically with your
chin. Since your iron is 
 suspect by this time, test it for several
seconds on the nearest exposed 
 skin. (Doing it by accident is just as
effective.) Heat the joint with 
 *feeling* this time. Lunge and parry. Don't
worry about the pad, traces, 
 or other parts--this is war! With maximal chin
pressure exerted to hold 
 the offending board in place, pull the lead
out, out, Out! 
7. OK, so you "...couldn't get
hold of it...," blah blah blah. Fool! 
 You must risk everthing at this stage. Insert
a small screwdriver under 
 the part, and white-knuckle that soldering
iron on the obverse. Pry and 
 heat until it pops. (Note: It is important to
keep in mind the concept of 
 "kick-back" should you succeed at
this. PC boards are likely to 
 wobble, flop, slip, then fling out of your
grasp once the offending little 
 monster finally lets go, taking test leads and
soldering station with it.) 
8. So, what kind of inept dweeb are
you, anyway? Give up! Clip the part. 
 Leave some lead to grab onto and repeat #6 and
7. If your face has turned 
 red it is best to shield the work from veiw
with your body, then steal a 
 quick look behind you to be sure noone is
suppressing a giggle as they 
 watch this humiliating display. 
9A. The lead came out but you STILL
have some solder left in the hole? 
 Gads. Find another part that you can
sacrifice. Press its helpless
 lead into the depressingly small pit you made
in the center of the pad. 
 Heat the base of the lead until you achieve
Punch-Through. Yank and Heat, 
 Yank and Heat. Evetually the solder will give
up in disgust and the 
 sacrificial component lead will slide
smoothly, signalling victory. 
9B. To your left is a hand drill; to
your right is a #60 bit. You know 
 what you must do. 
10. Now—you brute!— now that you've
overheated the pad, broken the trace, 
 cracked the component, gouged the board,
pitted the tip, blistered the 
 skin, wasted a beer, and irrefutably proven
once and for all that you 
 should have taken up gardening instead, NOW
maybe you'll learn the color 
 code! 
;) 
 N6KR
Our book: "SolderSmoke -- Global Adventures in Wireless Electronics" http://soldersmoke.com/book.htm Our coffee mugs, T-Shirts, bumper stickers: http://www.cafepress.com/SolderSmoke Our Book Store: http://astore.amazon.com/contracross-20

All electronic wizards have a soldering iron. Gentlemen, my I introduce you to the 'desoldering iron'. Part solder sucker, part soldering iron. http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d01849/desolder-iron-sucker/dp/SD01702?in_merch=Featured Products&MER=e-bb45-00001001
ReplyDeleteGreat article. I too have been there and done that.
ReplyDeleteWhen I was doing this professional, many years ago, I had a very nice de-soldering station.
Not that I have to do much de-soldering when constructing Wayne's creations. The instructions are so clear you rarely get things wrong.
Thanks for the article Wayne, and thanks to you Bill for the best ham radio blog and podcast on the air.
73 Gareth - M5KVK
PS I'm half way through "Adventures" Bill and loving it.