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Showing posts with label amplifier theory. Show all posts
Showing posts with label amplifier theory. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 15, 2016

25 Watts From a Single IRF510

I should have tried this a long time ago.  It works great.  The power supply that I picked up at the Kempton Park rally many years ago  happens to have a 25 volt unregulated output.  Coincidence you say?  I think not.  TRGHS.  

 Farhan provides a really excellent description of how to do this:
http://hfsignals.blogspot.com/p/25-watt-linear-for-40-and-20.html

Saturday, November 12, 2016

Putting a Heatsink on the BITX40 Module

The fan that I installed yesterday was driving me nuts.  It was noisy, both acoustically and electrically.  And I would occasionally get my fingers in the blades.  Not good.  While it did seem to keep the IRF510 from getting too hot, I knew that a real heatsink would do better thermally.

But how was I going to attach the sink to the transistor?  That tab on the IRF510 goes to the collector, so if it touches a grounded heat sink, you get a short.   A nylon screw and some mylar between the transistor tab and the heat sink is one option.  But I didn't have a nylon screw.  So I decided to just keep the heat sink electrically insulated from the chassis.

This project required me to refresh my memory on how to tap a 4-40 hole.  I went back and watched the short video I made on the tribal knowledge that Pete had shared with me.  Out came the Tap and Die gear and the machine oil.  The process went very smoothly.

Here is what I did to get the heatsink in place:

1) After removing the original heatsink, I gently bent the leads on the IRF510 so that the transistors outer edge would be flush with the edge of the PC board.
2) I put a strip of thick tape (Gorilla Tape) along the lower side of the heat sink. This will keep the heat sink from shorting to the chassis.
3) I placed the heatsink where I wanted it, and carefully marked where the mounting screw (through the transistor's tab) should go.
4) Drill!  Tap!  (see video)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuqliWT1k5A
5) I applied some heat sink compound (or Desitin!) and then attached the transistor to the heatsink.
6) I put a few drops of glue between the heatsink and the board and the chassis, just to mechanically stabilize it a bit.
7) Bob's your uncle.

It seems to work great.  The MOSFET stays cool. even after long "old buzzard" transmissions.  And I notice no stability problems.  It was fun  to put to use some tribal knowledge and refresh a mechanical skill.  

Thursday, November 10, 2016

Two Gel Cells and a Heat Sink -- BITX40 Power Hack

I blame Pete for this.  And Farhan.  Pete has been leading us astray with all his talk of high power linear amplifiers ("Two 813s kid, that's all you need!").  And Farhan practically pushed us beyond QRP limits by placing a separate DC power connector for the IRF510 final amplifier on his new BITX 40 Module board.  Farhan writes: 

There are jump-points from where you can add more modules like the DDS, more bands, better audio amplifier, etc. Imagination is your limit. You can separately increase the power amplifier's supply voltage to 25 volts to be more than 20 watts of power : You will have to add a better heat sink. The mods are on the way! (from hfsigs.com)

A while back Chris KD4PBJ sent me some very nice heat sinks -- one of those would fit quite nicely on the PA side of the BITX40 board.  And I just happen to have two 12V Gel cell batteries. One will power the board and the two together will power the IRF510.  With 20 watts out to my dipole I feel confident that I will WIN the upcoming ARRL Phone Sweepstakes (in my category: Homebrew VFO, Northern Virginia).  

Monday, February 22, 2016

Design Wisdom from Allison, KB1GMX


Allison KB1GMX has helped me out of numerous battles with recalcitrant amplifiers.  She provided an interesting contribution on the r2pro mailing list thread that I referenced yesterday:  

Interesting thread...

 I see Rick as having provided the basis and tools and it up to the collective 'US" to use them to 
create that next generation radio.  All you have to do is decide the performance and 
then go about looking at the means to do so.  All the blocks are there.

Dynamic range, how much is enough?  When I'm portable or mobile raw sensitivity is 
more useful as the antenna is usually a compromise.  Overload is easy to handle with
switchable attenuator.  The exception to this was a radio designed for contesting in a 
hostile environment (a KW user 800ft away) if you burn power you get overload 
performance.  Its not a battery friendly radio (RX power is over 1A for headphone output).
Look at what you need and not what you want.

TX power is just adding stages.  I've worked MOSFETs, LDMOS, GaN FETS and there 
are some pretty cool devices out there and some not designated for RF are cheap.
If all else fails the IRF510 gets both raves and derision.  At 12V its a tepid device
but at over 20V and at 24V it starts to wake up and really perform. I've run The WA2EBY
design for a few years at 45W level using two of those push pull at 28V and its clean and 
solid and the original pair are now over 6 years old!  I also run 8 of them  (4x4push pull) 
at 32V at 6M for a cool 210W  with good IMD.  I'd add all the good (high gain, low IMD) 
power fets perform better at 28  or 50V.   For those into CW consider class E as I've 
worked with this and using GaN fets have generated 15W with 82% efficiency at 
13.56mhz (includes driver and osc) and using the lowly IRF510 at 12V a full 10W 
with 85% efficiency. Class E can be amplitude modulated.

As to the thermionic FETs, a 6AU6 crystal osc driving a 5763 for 10W  gets a lot of raves
on 40M from a buddy that runs CW.  The same deal plate modulated can sound good 
at 5-6W AM on 75M.  For those that want more a 6C4, 6aq5, 6146 will get you over 
50W on CW and 25W AM.  Change the bias a little and inject IQ SSB into the driver grid
and be running 50-80W PEP.  A 12BY7 or 6CL6 driving a pair of 6146 will get you into 
the 180-200W DC input range for about 100W.   Remember the hybrid radios solid state 
low level and rugged tubes for the heavy lifting.  The Pi network (or Pi-L) will load anything 
from about 28 to 100ohms more if you use enough taps and variable caps.  That and DC-DC
converter for the HV are not terrible at 80% or better (even the 1960s transistor designs 
were better than 75%).

In the end it all starts with the receiver.  For that you can always start with a 1T4 RF and 
a 1R4 converter and a 1T4 as regen driving a 3V4 audio.  Power it with 45V (five 9V battery)
and a C cell and go portable.  It should run for a very long while.  Hollow fets run well at low 
drain currents.  :)

Allison

Sunday, November 9, 2014

BIG Amplifiers with SMALL Microcontrollers and LOTS of Tribal Knowledge


Hi Bill,
I wanted to forward to you a slightly edited email I sent to one of our podcast listener’s as I think this is a really good example of some “Tribal Knowledge”.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi OM,

Ham radio publications are much like the Internet –all that is published must be scrutinized. One such publication had a beautiful QRP to QRO amp using a 3CX800A7. A few watts in and 800 Watts out. My daughter was in FM radio broadcasting and I told her to introduce herself to the station engineer and to look out for any pulls – then the floodgates opened –about a week later I had a 3CX800A7.
So I started to work on the amp. The circuits just didn’t make sense and parts were missing that would make it work correctly. I contacted the author and here is what he shared. He built the amp but never did get to proof the final article. In fact he sent me his notes and sketches which were correct. Thus I could have never built that amp using just the article. I built it for one band, 20 Meters. It has a tuned input and a Pi-L output so is quite excellent on harmonic reduction.
Oh BTW this amp caused me to learn about PIC Microcontrollers. You cannot hit the 3CX800A7 with HV voltage until the cathode is warmed up (must be a female tube). That time delay is 3 minutes. I could not find a suitable time delay relay with a 3 minute delay that didn’t cost an arm and a leg. So that is when I thought about using the PIC16F84 as a time delay relay. Later I ported that over to a 12F675. The cost was less than $10. In the 3CX1500A7 amp ( another free tube)  I have two microcontrollers in there. One is used for a three second step start on the filaments (don’t want to shock the filaments with inrush current) and the second for the 3 minute delay before starting the HV step start sequence.
You can see the “Big AMP” on my website at http://www.jessystems.com.
There was only one problem – I was worried about the cooling of the tube so I made sure there was plenty of air which I dump into a very small sub-chassis and the exhaust is out through the tube. Well “Dah” large volume in and small port for exhaust and you have a jet engine sitting on the desk top. Man it was loud – I would wear headphones when it was working.  When I built the 3CX1500A7 amp I used a larger plenum so not as loud.
There are several key points I want to make about tribal knowledge:
  1. Turn off the soldering iron and spend a good deal of time “noodling” over the circuit so that it is clear what each function will do and that all the wires connect to something.
  2. Contact the author and ask lots of questions and you might be surprised to find out the published design is not what was designed!
  3. Look for uncommon solutions to build problems. Many times parts used in the articles are so unique that only one exists in the whole world and it is installed in the authors unit.
  4. The amp was built in 2000 and the use of the PIC16F84 as a time delay for an amp was a bit leading edge but don’t be afraid to employ some advanced technology into your projects. [Today an Arduino built into the amp could do time delay, temperature control of blowers, SWR sensing, grid trip protection and even warm your coffee.]
  5. In the Big AMP I figured out how to keep the blower going for about 1 minute after the amp is turned off to “cool down” the tube. The point here is to think about not just the amp itself but refinements to make that $600 tube last for a very long time thus filament current inrush protection and tube cool down.
  6. Don’t forget SAFETY – there is 2000 Volts @ 1 amp running around chassis–it is an electric chair sitting on your desk top. I included a microswitch that when the top cover is off it de-energizes the HV circuits. See if you can spot it in the photos.
73’s
Pete N6QW
PS The amp really does exist –see below.







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Saturday, November 8, 2014

Pete's "Let's Build Something" Audio Amplifier (video)



Who needs LM386 ICs?  Pete goes discrete!   Love the MePads.   And I knew Pete was going to test it with his finger!  He's just taking stray hum from the power lines and coupling it to the input through that Exacto knife.   

Seems to me like these boards is getting close to actually receiving signals.     

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Saturday, November 1, 2014

OH NO! SolderSmoke Goes QRO! Bill's Amplifier Project (video)



I got the Communications Concepts Inc. EB-63A amplifier working today.  Yea!
Kind of ironic that the highest power amp I have ever built gave me the LEAST trouble.  This just goes to show that circuit layout is very important.  This amp is a proven design, with a proven layout and board.  That's why it didn't turn into a 140 watt solid state oscillator!

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Thursday, July 24, 2014

WA7MLH's RD16HHF Amplifier


OK, so now that I have the MOXON in the air, my thoughts are turning to amplifiers and a possible winter project. Hey, even QRP guru Doug DeMaw conceded that every once in a while a fellow needs a few more db. And the sunspot count will be dropping.  

On the BITX group there has been an interesting discussion of using RD16HHF MOSFETs in place of our familiar IRF-510s.  I thought these devices were new, but some Googling this morning led me back to the wonderful website of QRP giant (hey, he is IN SSDRA!) Jeff Damm,  WA7MLH.   Jeff has been using these devices for quite some time.  As with all of Jeff's projects, I find his EXTREME UGLY building methods to be inspirational and reassuring.  Even if you have been there before, you should visit his site:


Even his QRZ.com page makes you want to build something:

Thanks Jeff! 



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Friday, December 13, 2013

Circular Polarity and The Water Wheel in Dale's Moonbounce Amplifier

Bill:
 
I'll attach some pix of the feedhorn and LNA for you.

The importance of circular  feeds is that as a linear wave passes through the ionosphere, it undergoes Faraday rotation. So it may arrive at  the station you are talking to having been twisted 90 degrees. This  is a slow progressing process and  on  all bands except 23cM, may cause EU for example to be locked out for hours at a time for linear stations.

With circular polarity, Faraday is a non issue. The feedhorn almost all of us use is a VE4MA that has separate TX and RX probes. The circular polarity is synthesized as the linear wave propagates down the circular waveguide and encounters sets of  capacity stubs. The exact opposite occurs for waves entering the waveguide. The result is we get CW and CCW without having to use any relays (loss) and phasing  lines (loss).

My LNA has a noise figure of under 0.24dB and uniquely connects to a protection relay with no cable or adapters (loss).

The position of the feedhorn and its scalar ring is tediously adjusted by measuring the difference between sun noise and cold sky. W4SC developed a very accurate and repeatable process that uses an SDR RX for this.

I use  a modified C band satellite drive system known as a polar mount so I only need one motor drive to track the moon.

Anyway, hearing my own echoes off the moon was and still is the highlight of my amateur career. 
 
The photos are the feedhorn + LNA, My first water cooled 500W  tube amp, my previous 400W solid state amp (mounts right at the dish). My current design is 600W solid state and will also mount at the dish.

BTW, that little circle in the middle of the tube amp is a paddle wheel that turns as long as water is flowing. A tachometer on the wheel sounds an alarm and shuts down plate voltages   should the wheel stop turning.

I'll keep  you up to date on my BB RX progress- thank you again Bill.

Dale W4OP



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Wednesday, September 18, 2013

BITX Build Update #8


Big progress on the BITX:  All the bidirectional amp stages are done.   A bag of 20 5 MHz crystals arrived from Mouser today.  I put one in the BFO/Carrier oscillator and it fired right up.  I'll soon be checking frequencies on these crystals, looking for four that are closest in frequency for use in the filter. 

While waiting for the mail I built the audio amplifier for the receiver (lower left corner in the picture above).   Here I need some advice/encouragement:  In an effort to keep this rig "all discrete" I decided to dispense with the LM386, and replace it with an AF amp using individual transistors.  I found a circuit in the 1980 ARRL Handbook that I liked.   It has two direct coupled transistors, one NPN, the other PNP.  I went with a 2N3904 and a 2N3906.   The Handbook said it would yield 40 db gain.  I figured this was a close enough replacement for the 46 db gain of the LM386.  

As usual, I'm not sure of the impedance matching.  I built the first AF stage from the BITX schematic (the stage that precedes the LM386).  It goes to a 10K pot.  The wiper of the pot would normally go into pin 3 of the LM386.   I have the wiper going through a 4.7 uF electrolytic into base of the first transistor.  The Handbook says the circuit has an input impedance of 1000 ohms.  Does my arrangement sound OK? 

Output impedance from this Handbook circuit is also 1000 ohms.  I tried it with some HI-Z headphones that I have, putting AF in from my Maplin AF sig generator.   It sounds OK.   Not a LOT of audio available.  But OK.  I may need one more stage to drive a speaker.     

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Tuesday, March 5, 2013

VE7BPO on "Killing Q"

I'm still scratching my head a bit about HOW the resistor prescribed by Edgardo, LU1AR, cured the 250 kHz oscillation problem that was plaguing the JBOT amplifier in my 20 meter DSB rig.   Earlier I'd posted an excerpt from a CQ article in which Doug DeMaw talks about swamping and Q killing.   Last week I got a very thoughtful e-mail from esteemed homebrewer Todd,  VE7BPO.  Here is an excerpt :

Thoughts and Considerations
Let’s discuss squashing low frequency oscillations in a QRP transmitter; say at 200 KHz or so. A low value resistor across the coil (12t -- FT37-43) often works well to stop these.
Oscillations come from the transistor: gain versus frequency isn’t linear, nor is impedance at transistor ports. We’ll often add negative feedback and such to stabilize an amplifier towards unconditional status. In my Tx circuit that oscillated, no feedback was applied. 
 In the case of an inductor wound on a FT37-43 or FT50-43, the Q is already low (say 8- 15 or so). Obviously a resistor in parallel with such a coil is not going to lower Q since Q is already quite low. That R will reduce the inductor impedance and thus may serve to decrease the low frequency gain of the RF amplifier to stop any low frequency oscillations. This might not work so well with a way-high fT transistor where decoupling might be hampered if UHF oscillations are singing. 
Doug DeMaw often referred to the parallel resistor as a Q-killer. If we examine the equations describing parallel, or series resonant circuits -- if the Q of a tank is high enough, we can practically ignore the effect of resistance at resonance. Conversely if we add a resistance and make it high enough, we might even obliterate the resonant frequency or “kill the Q”. Engineers have long placed an R into a parallel-tuned circuit to drop Q and stop oscillations — they refer to it as damping. 1 example might be in old TV sets where a variable resistance was added to peaking coils to prevent a tank from ringing at a frequency determined by the coil L and distributed C. This applies to higher Q inductors and not our FT37-43 inductor. 
Decoupling
Our teacher, Wes, teaches us in EMRFD that coupling often occurs along the DC power supply lines.  Further, he’s taught us to decouple AC by placing high impedance in this path.  Often the impedance is a low-pass filter with series element(s) of a high Z and shunt element(s) with a low Z.  The filter must present a simple short circuit (or perhaps just a resistance) at low frequency so DC flows to the amplifier.    
Final 
Oscillations should likely be identified and treated according their frequency. This topic looks advanced and all RLC networks deserve more attention from us.
Todd, VE7BPO --- Feb 27, 2013
 

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Monday, December 24, 2012

A Christmas Present from Argentina


There is an old saying in Spanish:  "No hay mal que por bien no venga."   More or less this is the same idea as: "Every dark cloud has a silver lining."  Well, the dark cloud was my techno-agony with the parasitic oscillations (see below).  The silver lining was the e-mail from Edgardo, LU1AR, in Buenos Aires that helped me get rid of them.    Edgardo advised putting a resistor across the primaries of the JBOT amplifier stages.  This is an old "lower the Q" trick, the idea being that lowering the Q might help prevent the amp from self-oscillating.     I used 680 ohm resistors.   First I put one across the primary of Q1.  No joy. Then Q2.  No luck.  Then I put one right across the primary of that big output transformer.  That did it!  The parasitics disappeared.   And I still get a nice 4 watts of output.  Thanks Edgardo.  I hope to make a contact with this rig today. 

The real silver lining in this story comes, however, in the form of Edgardo's blog site.  Wow, what an inspiring example of Argentinian Knack.  Radios, telescopes, auto-giros.  This guy is also into homebrew DSB rigs.  Wonderful stuff.  Check it out.  (Google will translate it for you, if necessary, but even if you don't read Spanish, the pictures tell most of the story.) 
http://www.lu1ar.blogspot.com.ar/
Thanks to all who sent advice and encouragement.  Merry Christmas! 

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Thursday, February 2, 2012

Hard Core! Wisdom and Ideas on Toroids

Gerard ZS5AAC

This morning the BITX20 mailing list has an interesting discussion of toroidal cores. I especially like Gerard's use of the cores from old CFL bulbs. Farhan wraps it up with a great explanation of why we use ferrite cores in broadband transformers:
------------------------------
Over the years I built quite a few BITX's. In the beginning I used the
toroids salvaged from CFL lamps. These worked quite well for the mixer
coils. For the filter coils I used 6mm bakelite slug tuned coils that were
stripped from old PYE radios. Wonder if anybody else experimented
along the same lines. I build my BITX's Manhattan style and they work from the start with few minor tunings. Happy BITX'ing, Gerard, ZS5AAC.
---------------------------------------
Bob
The purists may attack us on this, but what you propose is very
possible. I have been using a wooden-core toroid for several years as part of an antenna tuner.

http://qrp.webhop.net/Pictures/Webcam-1293651325.jpeg


http://qrp.webhop.net/Pictures/Webcam-1295140555.jpeg


I'm also using small plastic and wooden beads as toroid cores for
several other projects. Half inch long sections cut from thick-wall (schedule-40 or schedule-80) PVC pipe also makes good toroidal forms. Beauty of using non-metallic cores is that the core can be split to allow winding wire through the slot without having to thread it through the hole.

http://qrp.webhop.net/Pictures/Webcam-1289957121.jpeg
= 1.4 uh

Bending an inductor back on itself in toroidal form concentrates the
magnetic field in the center, whether the core is metallic or non-metallic. This gives you similar self-shielding properties when using either type core material.

With non-metallic cores you no longer have to worry about core saturation, so running high current finals is not a problem.

Key to doing this is being able to measure inductance of 5 turns, 10 turns,
and 20 turns, so you can calculate and plot the effective AL of your wooden core toroids. Once you know this value you can make up a chart to tell how many turns are required for a specific inductance.

Twisting wires together to make a transmission-line for bifilar or
trifilar windings is interesting because the impedance of that transmission line might affect performance of your transformer. It may require a bit of experimentation with an SWR bridge to tell when you have the best balance between twist pitch, wire diameter, and insulation thickness.
Arv - K7HKL
---------------------------------------------

Robert, Arv,
There are two types of coils used in the bitx - the broadband
transformers and the RF coils in the bandpass filter and oscillators.
You could easily substitute the rf and vfo/bfo coils with just about
any kind of coil - as long as you are hitting the same inductance and
Q. But there is a catch : a few years ago, I finally got down to
measuring the Q of the nylon tap washers that I had originally used.
The q was quite modest at 70. Wes made independent measurements with similar results (his paper is on www.w7zoi.net under technical stuff). In short, for good performance use good old air coils wound on a
cylindrical formers if you don't use toroids.

About the broadband transformers. These need a material that has very
low loss, very high permeability. The reasoning is like this :
1. We need an transformer's inductance such that the reactance is
at least 200 ohms at the lowest frequency. This puts the inductance at
around 30uH at 4MHz.
2. If we achieve 30uH through lots of turns (say 100), each turn will
exhibit capacitance with it's neighbor and the large number of turns
will add up the capacitance so that the coil will provide enough
self-capacitance to resonate at an unintended frequency in HF leading
to pretty bad mixer performance.
3. The only way out would be to achieve the required reactance with
lower number of turns. This means using ferrites.
- farhan VU2ESE


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Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Toroidal Travails II

Steve Smith sent me a good article on broadband transformers. Reading through it, it occurred to me that perhaps using a heavier gauge wire in that PA output transformer might help. So I rebuilt the FT-50-43 transformer and put it in the final. No joy -- output was still down around 1 watt. Then I tried adding two turns to the secondary (on his web page Farhan advises experimenting with the turns ratio in an effort to improve output). Again, no joy. So I went back to the FT-37-43 transformer with 12 turns on the secondary. This yields the best results so far: about 2.5 watts. Still a bit low, but for some reason, the smaller cores seem to do better. Toroidal transformer tweaking to continue... Stay tuned.

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Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Toroidal Transformers: Does Size Matter?

I continue to tweak and peak the JBOT amplifier in the Azores 17 SSB transmitter. On this version I used some FT-50-43 toroidal cores instead of the smaller FT-37-43 cores recommended by Farhan. This morning I was experimenting with the output transformer. I seem to get noticeably more output with a transformer made with four FT-37-43 cores than I do with one made with four larger FT-50-43 cores.

I noticed something similar on my previous JBOT: performance improved when I switched from some relatively large binocular cores and went to the recommended FT-37-43.

So, what do you guys think? Could there be lower losses using the smaller cores? Any other reason why the smaller transformers seem to be doing better?

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Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Another JBOT Amplifier

Over the weekend I built another JBOT 5 watt linear amplifier (design by Farhan). I used a nice piece of copper-clad board that Dave, W8NF, sent me (thanks again Dave).

This time I chickened out regarding the possible conductivity of the anodized heat sinks. I didn't have any trouble with this on my first JBOT, but I worried that if the anodized layer gets flaked away, a heat sink might short one of those collectors to ground. To be on the safe side, I put small squares of Gorilla Tape on under the heat sinks. (PLEASE don't tell me that Gorilla Tape is conductive!)

For T1 and T2 I used FT50-43 toroids instead of the TV baluns used by Farhan. He had recommended FT37-43's as an alternative to the TV baluns, but I went with the slightly larger toroids. For T3 I rolled my own binocular core using four FT37-43 toroids stacked 2X2.

The amplifier has passed the smoke test. Next I have to put in the low pass filter (Steve Smith: Please note that I have left space on the board for the filter.) Then this version will face its real test when it goes into the 17 meter Azores SINGLE sideband rig.

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

Amplifier Woes -- Help me! Help me!

When I look in the mirror and I see a haunted, obsessed look in my eyes. My wife senses that there is something wrong in the ham shack. She is right. I have an amplifier that wants to be an oscillator. Help me exorcise these gremlins! Guys, this problem is holding up the production of the next SolderSmoke podcast.

My JBOT amp works fine into a dummy load, but when I connect it to an antenna, it gets unstable. Here are some more details of the symptoms:

I am running the JBOT with a 5 element (two toroids, 3 caps) low pass filter (designed by Doug DeMaw and approved by Steve Smith).

With the antenna connected, all is well UNTIL I raise the power out (by varying the input) beyond about 1 watt. Below one watt, the amp is working fine, and it stable. As soon as I hit the 1 watt point, the amplifier seems to break into oscillation. This does not happen into the dummy load.

The antenna is a simple dipole fed by coax. It shows a low SWR. Even when I put an antenna tuner between the amp and the antenna and bring the SWR down to negligible levels, the instability problem persists.

With the amp disconnected from all other circuitry other than the antenna and the power supply, if I just touch the input capacitor, it breaks into oscillation. This does not happen when the amp is working into the dummy load.

I've bolstered the power supply filtering and decoupling. No luck. I tried some de-Qing of the transformers. No luck.

Any suggestions?


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Monday, October 31, 2011

Pumpkin Pi and JBOT Gremlins

Maria wanted to go with a mathematical theme for this year's Jack-0-Lantern. Pumpkin Pi!

I have been chasing some gremlins and banshees around my old Azores 17 meter DSB rig. The JBOT Amp worked fine into a dummy load, but of course things got a bit more complicated when I put it into the rig and connected it to an antenna. It would take off (like a banshee!) if the load was at all reactive. I think this is the result of inadequate shielding and inputs a bit too close to outputs. But it all settles down nicely when I put a transmatch in the antenna line and tune out the reactance. I may just leave it this way.

Output is a bit low -- only about 1 Watt. I realize that at 18 MHz output should be dropping a bit, but I think I should be getting more. I THINK I'm giving it the recommended 1 milliwatt input. At some point I think Farhan mentioned the possible need to experiment with the number of turns on the secondary of the output transformer....

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Tuesday, October 18, 2011

My JBOT 5 Watt Linear (Farhan's Design)

There it is -- my version of Farhan's JBOT 5 watt linear amplifier. JBOT stands for "Just a Bunch of Transistors." But I think Farhan is being modest. I really like the design, especially the effort to make this something that hams around the world can reproduce from readily available parts. For example, Farhan's original version used TV balun cores for the transformers. I didn't have any of those around, but I found three "mystery spec" binocular cores in my junk box. They seem to be working just fine. (I tested them a bit: Farhan had written that FT 37-43 cores would work. T1 has seven turns trifilar. Seven turns on my mystery cores yielded 13uH. On an FT 37-43 core 7 turns yields around 20 uH. Close enough -- these are, after all, broadband transformers.)

Note how closely my build follows Farhan's schematic (which you can see in the background). When building this circuit, I just kept Farhan's web page on my computer screen, and scrolled up and down from his schematic to the photo of his version.

This is the first linear amplifier that worked the first time I powered it up. It didn't release any smoke, or leave transistor burn tattoos on fingers, or try to be a 14MHz oscillator.

This version is going into my Azores-built 17 meter DSB transceiver. See how nice it fits:

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Monday, October 17, 2011

My JBOT passes the Smoke Test

Over the weekend I built my first version of Farhan's JBOT. I really enjoyed building it. I soldered in the last connections this morning and I am happy to report that it passed the smoke test. More info (and a picture) tomorrow. Thanks Farhan!

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Designer: Douglas Bowman | Dimodifikasi oleh Abdul Munir Original Posting Rounders 3 Column