Three Cheers for the uBITX! Keeping problems in perspective...

This morning I was looking at Farhan's uBITX page.   He got philosophical at the end of the circuit description: 

As a fresh radio amateur in the 80s, one looked at the complex multiband radios of the day with awe. I remember seeing the Atlas 210x, the Icom 720 and Signal One radios in various friends’ shacks. It was entirely out of one’s realm to imagine building such a general coverage transceiver in the home lab.

Devices are now available readily across the globe through online stores, manufacturers are more forthcoming with their data. Most importantly, online communities like the EMRFD’s Yahoo group, the QRP LABS and BITX20’s groups.io community etc have placed the tribal knowledge within the grasp of far flung builders like I.

One knows that it was just a matter of breaking down everything into amplifiers, filters, mixers and oscillators, but that is just theory. The practice of bringing a radio to life is a perpetual ambition. The first signal that the sputters through ether, past your mess of wires into your ears and the first signal that leaps out into the space from your hand is stuff of subliminal beauty that is the rare preserve of the homebrewer alone.

So true!   Over on the BITX.io group there is a very interesting discussion of the extent to which the uBITX is in compliance with FCC and ITU specs on harmonic and spur emission. In this discussion, I think it is important to remember the reason Farhan created the BITX rigs:  The goal was to get today's radio amateurs out of their Yaesu-Kenwood-Icom appliance rut, and get them involved with the circuitry, to get them to modify and improve the rig.   And that's precisely what is going on now.  

It was well known that dual conversion is riskier than our old familiar single conversion architecture -- when you throw another mixer and oscillator into the rig you open the door to  problematic spurious signals..  But dual conversion holds out the promise of general coverage.  And the advantage of that is quite evident in the uBITX.  Mine is on right now and I can switch from band-to-band with a press of the tuning control. This is nice.  So a spur has been discovered -- solutions are already being offered.  That's the spirit!   And it looks like the low pass filters might not be as effective as hoped.  This may be a simple matter of board layout and relay use.  That is clearly quite fixable.

So let's remember that this is not plug-and-play ham radio. This is more of a collaborative, homebrew, open-source hardware/software project.   The uBITX may be closer to true homebrew than many hams are accustomed to.  That was the whole idea. 

Patience is a virtue
Possess it if you can 
It is never held by techies
And seldom held by hams  

Dragnet Goes After TV Repairmen in 1951

Detective Friday goes after a vicious new kind of crime:  Crooked TV repairmen who overcharge their customers.  These monsters unnecessarily replace (or say they do!) transformers, when all that is needed is a new 5U4 tube.  Oh, the humanity!   

And the reporter they were working with pretended to be a salesman for a new company dealing in rosin-core solder!   

No kidding.  I really thought this was a joke.  They were serious.  Just click on the video above to listen.  

Or scroll forward to the 1:32:59 point on this link.  Lots of tube talk.  This one's for you Grayson!  https://wamu.org/story/18/02/20/big-broadcast-feb-25-2018/

A Wonderful Troubleshooting Story -- Thailand, Mixers, a Simpson 260, Microwaves, and some Black Tape

My old friend was really fortunate to have had such a good Staff Sergeant instructor at Signal School, someone for whom the mixer trig was obviously not enough.  And our old friend obviously also benefitted greatly from having had a dad who set him up with a Simpson 260 and some handmade experimental glass diodes. Wow.  It all came together with some black tape in Thailand... 

Bill,

Enjoyed your latest blog. I remember your asking about mixers years 

ago.  I received much the same explanation from a Staff Sergeant 

instructor at Ft. Monmouth in 1967.  His example was a mixer with 

diodes, noting the need to have them forward biased by the LO supply.  

We worked out much the same waveforms as shown in your Blog and 

the concept became part of my 'intuitive' knowledge.

A few years later I was fighting 120hz hum on the baseband of an IWCS 

microwave system feeding USAF command at the Korat Air Base in

Thailand. The hum was pretty high level and causing inter-modulation 

problems on the 60 channels of signal sideband suppressed carrier 

being applied to the microwave system.

We ended up with a couple of DCA DoD employees being flown in to help, 

to their credit they were prior service and darn good at what they did.  

After three days of testing all parts of the microwave system with a 

very long distance and long duration phone call to the manufacture in 

Calif, they still had not found the trouble.

I had stayed working with the DCA guys all of the time, during the 

testing I noted the hum seem to lessen in strength with someone standing 

directly behind the radio bay.

I went around to the back and took a close look, Yep! the mixer diodes 

for the baseband order-wire were glass and exposed.

Put a length of black tape over them and the hum went away.  Not the 

power supply problem everyone was fixated on, it was diode photo 

sensitivity.  I guess we could have just turned off the florescent 

lights too.

When I was 10 years old my father showed me how to use a Simpson

260 to check diodes and early transistors*. We were on the floor of the 

living room with sunlight streaming in.  I saw the forward resistance change

a lot when the glass diode was in sun light vs shade. It was this memory 

that prompted me to try the black tape.

All the MW systems in SEA later received a MWO to change out the 

order-wire board and I found that the assembly was a non-standard part 

of the microwave system just for military use.  Civilian deployment of 

that microwave system had no need for the order-wire.

Thanks for the quick trip, for me anyway, down memory lane and the 

memory of being an electronics tech hero for all of two minutes. The DCA 

guys made me buy the first round at the club.

73  from an old friend....

Cliff Stoll -- Still Passionate About Electronics (Video)

I open Chapter 3 of my book "SolderSmoke -- Global Adventures in Wireless Electronics" with some quotes from Cliff Stoll:  "Where's the joy of mechanics and electricity, the creation of real things?  Who are the tinkerers with a lust for electronics?"  Well Cliff, that would be us! 

I'm glad to see in the (obviously) recent video that OM Still has not lost his passion for electronics. You guys will like this one.  Keep 'em comin' Cliff!

SolderSmoke Podcast #200! 17, Knack Nobel, QCX, 630, UHF, Fessenden, TROUBLESHOOTING

DL3AO 1950

SolderSmoke Podcast #200 -- TWO HUNDRED!!!!-- Is available

http://soldersmoke.com/soldersmoke200.mp3

-- Old friends on 17 meters.  

-- Another Knack Nobel in Physics.  

-- Hans Summers' QCX transceiver:  $50 IS THE NEW 10 GRAND! 

-- New Bands!  630 and 2200 Meters.  BIG ANTENNAS! 

-- Nuke Powered QRP.  No joke! 

-- The Challenge of UHF.  Not for the faint of heart. 

-- Reginald Fessenden, Father of Phone. 

PETE'S BENCH REPORT:   The New Simple-ceiver.  Soon to be a Transceiver. 

BILL's BENCH REPORT:  Discrete, Direct Conversion, Ceramic Receiver in iPhone Box.  

THE EDUCATIONAL PORTION OF TODAY's PROGRAM:  
HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT A HOMEBREW RECEIVER. 

MAILBAG. 

DL3AO 1950

Intuitive Repair of a Sony Shortwave Portable

A few years ago my wife got me this nice little Sony ICF-SW7600GR receiver.   On the front it proclaims that it is "AM DUAL CONVERSION" and "PLL SYNTHESIZED."   It has a BFO, and a filter of suitable width for SSB.  It also has a synchronous detector -- it generates an internal carrier that matches the frequency and phase of the carrier being transmitted by the SW broadcast (or ham AM) transmitter.  This helps overcome the selective fading that often plagues AM signals.  Sony advises switching to USB or LSB once the synchronous generator locks onto the carrier.  Pretty cool. 

The BFO is the reason I wanted this receiver. And wouldn't you know, when I dropped it,  it landed EXACTLY on the little BFO fine tune control pot.  It was as if the Radio Gods disliked all the fancy digi PLL synchronous IC circuitry.   

I tried without success to find the value of the destroyed pot.  Finally, last week I just decided to have a look in there to see if I could just figure it out. 

On the board I could see that the pot only connected at two places, so I figured it would be a varactor circuit on the BFO with one end of the pot to DC and the wiper to the varactor diode.  I figured I'd try a 10K pot. 

This seems to have been some good radio intuition.  It works.  I went with a small trimmer because it is less obtrusive and because once I set the BFO in the right spot, I think the de facto channelization of the 40 meter ham band will keep most of the SSB sigs in tune. And the Sony only tunes in 1 kHz increments. If necessary I can move the BFO a bit with a small screwdriver.  I just glued the trimmer pot onto the back of the receiver -- two wires covered by heat shrink run back into the circuitry. 

10k might be a bit too small.  Maybe 100k would be better?  As it is, I can move the BFO above and below the "zero beat" point, and I don't need more range. Mouser has a small trimmer pot with a tuning wheel that looks like it might fit, so I may try for a proper repair. 

FDIM: W8SX Interviews Mike Bryce WB8VGE

Mike Bryce's many contributions to the radio art and QRP definitely puts him in the Homebrew Hero category. I have Mike's "Hotwater Handbook" (about the legendary HW-8) on my bookshelf.  Our intrepid SolderSmoke media team (Bob W8SX) spoke to Mike at FDIM 17.  His comments on the joy of a good troubleshoot, and on the pernicious, unfixable nature of many recently marketed appliance radios really resonated with me.   

Mike has special expertise on Heathkit gear:  https://www.theheathkitshop.com/index.html

Listen to the interview with Mike here:

http://soldersmoke.com/FDIM17WB8VGE.mp3

KEEP THAT GREEN FLAME BURNING MIKE!

Color Code Violation -- Almost as Bad as Breaking Ohm's Law!

A cautionary tale:   How would you read the color code on that little resistor?    It was plucked from a strip marked 2.2 ohms.   And indeed it is red-red-gold.  2.2 ohms, right?   But no,  my friends. On the DVM it reads 2.2 kilo ohms.  2200 ohms.  Believe me, that makes a big difference when it is in the Vcc line of your driver!  It took me a while to find out WHY that driver wasn't driving very well.  

This turned out to be one of those very satisfying trouble-shoots --  the problem was elusive and it wasn't all my fault.  But I should have MEASURED the resistor value before soldering it in. 

Here is the scary part:  The next resistor from the same strip was marked the same way, but measured 2.2 ohms.  Be careful out there. 

When Bypass Caps are Not Enough: Active Decoupling

I was having a noise problem with my NE602 Si5351 OLED display receiver.   There was an annoying high pitched whine in the audio output.  The source was easy to identify:  If I reached in and unplugged the OLED display, the noise disappeared.  

Next I had to find out how the OLED noise was getting into the rest of the receiver.  It could have been through the SCL SDA or even the ground lines.  It could have been just through capacitive or inductive coupling from the display board itself.  A big clue came when I tried powering the display from a completely separate power supply: BINGO! The noise disappeared. So I knew the noise was going into the rest of the receiver through the Vc line that powered the OLED. 

I had been powering the OLED from the 5V regulator on the Arduino Uno. In an effort to isolate the noise, I put a separate 5V regulator in the circuit for the OLED.  No joy -- noise still there.  I then tried putting an RC low pass filter between the OLED and the 5V regulator.  Still had the noise.  Finally I remembered something from the AF AMP circuits of Roy Lewallen, Rick Campbell and Roger Hayward. ( I think Roy was the pioneer on this one.)  They all used an "active decoupler" between the first AF amp and the power supply line.   I confirmed that it was my first AF amp that was picking up the OLED noise.   I built the active decoupler (just three parts!) and the noise disappeared.  GONE! 

There are only three parts, but the way this circuit works is kind of complicated and not very intuitive.   There is a good discussion of how it works here:

www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/dkelley/elec351/Lab/elec351lab5_sp04.doc

Roy, Rick and Roger were using this circuit to knock down 60 Hz AC hum, but I found that my OLED noise was at around 200 Hz -- I figured (correctly) that the active decoupler would take care of this as well.   I think this little circuit can be useful in dealing with the kind of noise generated by the digi displays that many of us are now using.    

David Rowe has a really interesting analysis of this circuit here:
http://www.rowetel.com/?p=4781

KD4PBJ's FB BITX 40

Hi Guys!

I have to admit something. It's a learning experience.
A year or two ago I bought the Bitx boards from Sunil in India and while they are on the To Do list, haven't been built up yet. I have close to 20 projects on my to do list, so when Farhan's prebuilt SMT version became available I decided to get one.
I had gone over to TenTec before they shut down and bought a few of their two piece enclosures since I like how attractive they are and also inexpensive.
The Bitx went into the enclosure quickly and I measured a little over 10 W out with my scope. I fed a -125 dBm signal in using my HP8640 generator and could easily hear the tone.
So a really sensitive receiver. Nice and quiet too!
I got a SMT digital dial from QRP Guys and got it in the case. Now I heard a high pitched whine in the background. Nuts!
So I posted to the Bitx yahoo group asking for help in reducing the noise. I built a R/L/C filter network, added ferrites, built a copper clad and brass enclosure for the display. Nada. Noise still there. Adding adhesive copper tape didn't help either.
This was driving me mad. For some reason, and I don't know why, one evening I decided to try a gel cell. Success!!! No noise whatsoever.
Here's what happened....
When I first built the radio in early December I tested it on my operating bench. On that bench is a older Power Designs 0-60V 0-5A linear bench supply.
After adding the display I did integration on my soldering lab bench and for that I grabbed my HP E3610 supply which it turns out is heavy but switching, not linear. The noise was coming from the supply!!
If I hadn't tried the gel cell it may have taken me a long time to figure this out.
Saturday of last week was my first contact with it. I worked two Canadian stations with it, and both came back to me the first time  after I answered their CQ's. I did have one issue and that's the well documented drift. During the QSO I watched the display drift upwards as I held the PTT button down. I replaced the 100 pF and 47 pF chip caps in the VFO with disc ceramic parts from Mouser and now it doesn't drift.
While doing the work in the VFO section I also tweaked the trimmer cap a bit to bring the bottom range up to the start of the phone band, as before the bottom end was below 7 MHz and I figured that didn't do me much good for a SSB rig to waste a lot of its tuning range on the CW segment.
Here are a few pictures. Mic is home brew too, having made it for my MMR-40 rig.

Hope all is going well for you and looking forward to the next Solder Smoke.

Chris KD4PBJ

Of Waterfalls, SDRs, and Homebrew Analog Rigs: Words of Wisdom from W8JI

W8JI

It happened again today. Conditions were good and I was BOOMING into the NYC area on 40 meters.  40 over.  Everyone liked the signal and said it sounded great.  Except for one anonymous grump who chimed in to say that I was "9 kc wide."  I imagine he was basing this on a quick look at his super-dooper SDR waterfall, without any consideration of signal strength or the characteristics of his own receiver. Sigh.  The Waterfall Police had struck again.  

OM W8JI gives a great description of the pitfalls of this kind of "you're-too-wide-because-my waterfall-says-so" reasoning.  Check it out.  And keep it handy in preparation for your next encounter with the 40 meter Waterfall Police.  

https://www.w8ji.com/checking_bandwidth_with_receiver.htm

'Tis the season... To Worry about Electrostatic Discharge

Read and heed, or you'll be sorry.  The cold weather causes us to spend more time in the shack and to work on new homebrew project.  Some of these projects may involve sensitive, delicate, solid-state components that can be instantly wiped out by that little winter spark from your finger...

Take a look:

http://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2016/01/an-electro-static-bandaid-to-protect.html
 
I have to be especially careful this year, because Northern Virginia is now officially in a drought.  So that spark-friendly dry winter air is likely to be even dryer this year.

Oz Tektronix 'Scope Repair (in Juliano Blue)

Rob is a braver ham than I.  When my Tek 465 quit, I tried to fix it, but quickly chickened out.
Very nice that he painted his in Juliano Blue.

Dear Bill and Pete, 

I do enjoy your podcast, and I must present an offering to the "Gods of Homebrew", 

An on-line find of an old Tek 545 oscilloscope presented a chance to enjoy the warmth of 100+ tubes (once repaired)

The outside was heavily scratched, the inside looked like a chicken coup, but no major bits missing or broken. 

Lots of cleaning, testing all tubes,(using the excellent uTracer tube tracer),  replacing the broken 3, remounting the cooling fan, lots of reading about tube oscilloscopes, adjusting the trigger circuit, rebuilding 3 electrolytic power supply capacitors, sandblasting the cabinet and a coat of BLUE paint. 

Voila,  the joy of (visual) oscillation!     (1MHz 2V p-p)

Rob VK5RC

KB8M's Mighty Mite -- Beware the Treacherous P2N2222!

Doug KB8M did a beautiful job with his Michigan Mighty Mite.  But, as often happens, it still didn't work. He turned to us for advice.  I gave him a long list of things to check, but Pete brought the power of superior tribal knowledge to the problem and spotted the defect immediately: The transistor was in backwards.  It is a P2N2222.  That means the pin out it C-B-E  not the usual E-B-C.  I had fallen into this trap with one of my BITX rigs and had to pull out and reverse many of those transistors.  Fortunately for Doug he had used a socket for the transistor.  TRGHS!!!!!!!!!!!!!  JOO!!!!!!!!!!!

In Search of the Elusive Imperial Whitworth

This beautiful old variable capacitor came out of a 1930's British regen receiver that I picked up years ago at the Kempton Park rally near London.  When I rebuilt that receiver, I found that the cap was thoroughly stuck.  No amount of solvents could loosen it.  I put it in the junk box and used a more modern cap in its place.

When planning for my current BIG VFO project (see yesterday's post) I re-read Frank Harris's chapter on VFOs.  Frank recommended a non-linear cap -- actually a cap that maintains a constant percentage change in capacitance as it goes through its tuning range.  My old British cap seemed to fill the bill.  Also, it appears to be brass or bronze which is said to have better temperature stability.  So I pulled the Brit cap out of the junk box.  It was still stuck, but as I tugged on it a bit, it suddenly loosened up.  Wow!  TRGHS.

When I tried to mount the capacitor in the QF-1 box, I discovered another problem:  the nut for the main mounting screw was missing.   And guess what:  None of the nuts in my "big box of screws and nuts" (I know you guys all have one of these boxes) was the right size.  Or, as Pete put it, all were of two sizes: a bit too big, or a bit too small.

Dex ZL2DEX informed me that the needed nut was likely an "Imperial Whitworth" (Don't you love British names?).  I started to think about how to get such an elusive part.... I thought about walking into Home Depot and asking them where they keep their Imperial Whitworths.  This wouldn't have been productive.

Then I started to wonder where the original nut went.  It would have stood out in my junk box because it is brass-colored.  I looked again in the junkbox.  No luck.  Then I realized that I might have used it to mount that replacement cap in my rebuild of the old British regen.  I pulled that old beast (wooden chassis!) off the shelf.  There it was, the needed brass nut.  Cap and nut were reunited, problem solved.   

It is kind of fun to include an old part like this in the new project.

Thanks Dex.  And thanks again to Frank Harris for the great book.

Occam's Bench: M0XPD on the Minimalist Measurement Mindset

Our ace correspondent in Dayton, Bob Crane W8SX, caught up with Paul Darlington M0XPD (above, the guy with the rifle) and interviewed him about his presentation at Four Days in May 2016.  You can listen to the interview here by clicking on the link below.   I especially liked the comments on the joys of fixing things and the advantages of SIMPLE analog circuitry. Listen to the end and you will learn about Paul Darlington's connection to the famous Darlington Pair.    

http://soldersmoke.com/M0XPDFDIM.mp3

Paul provided more info (including his slide show and presentation notes) on his BRILLIANT Dayton talk here:
https://sites.google.com/site/shacknasties/presentations/fdim-2016

You can  buy Paul's book here:
https://www.amazon.com/getting-there-Paul-Darlington/dp/1523452196

Thanks Paul!  Thanks Bob! And thanks to George Dobbs and William of Occam!

NP0 Is the Way to Go!

Much to the consternation of Pete "Digi" Juliano, I have been working on analog LC VFOs for simple superhet receivers.   As described in earlier posts, I recently converted an old Barebones CW superhet to 40 meter SSB.   At first, the VFO (2 -2.3 MHz) was not stable enough -- it would slowly drift in frequency. ("We have a solution for that," chuckled Pete.)   My first effort at stabilization involved replacing the toroidal coil.  The material in the core is sensitive to temperature changes and this can lead to instability.  I found my traditional cardboard tube from a coat hanger, and made a coil of the needed inductance (you can see it in the pictures).  This yielded some improvement in stability, but it was still drifting.  

Next I tried taking out all the silver mica and disc ceramic caps in the LC circuit of the oscillator and replacing them with NP0 ceramic caps.  The feedback caps are in the box below the tuning cap, but you can see some of the little NP0s on the outside of the box, connected to a rotary switch.  This serves as the equivalent of variable "Bandset" variable cap, with the tuning cap serving as the "Bandspread."  I have seven switch positions, each covering about 40 KHz (with some overlap).  This gives me all of the phone band and the bottom 30 kHz of the CW band.  

Switching to NP0 caps really did the trick.  The receiver is now very stable. When I told Farhan about my VFO woes, he mentioned that he'd had very good stability results with surface mount caps.  I wonder if this success has more to do with those caps being NP0 than with their surface mount configuration.  

Here is a good description of NP0:

NP0 Ceramic Capacitors are single-layer ceramic capacitors made from a mixture of titanates.

A NP0 ceramic capcitor is an ultrastable or temperature compensating capacitor. It is one of the most highly stable capacitors. It has very predictable temperature coefficients (TCs) and, in general, does not age with time. 
NP0 stands for negative-positive 0 ppm/°C, meaning that for negative or positive shifts in temperature, the capacitance changes 0 part per million, meaning that it has a flat response across a wide range of temperatures; the capacitance of the NP0 capacitor stays constant (at the same value) despite variations in temperature.  

From: http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-NPO-ceramic-capacitor

But I think it is a stretch to claim that these marvelous caps do not "age with time!"  That would be a really astounding property of the titanium dielectric.  That would be a Negative-Positive Zero FLUX capacitor, right?

Humidity Data and the Zapping of my LCD Display

Sometimes the Radio Gods conspire against you.   Check out the chart above.  It shows relative humidity at my location.   I zapped my LCD display right around 2000 UTC on January 25, 2016.  That poor little LCD didn't stand a chance :-(

Right now relative humidity here is 79%.  No sparks now! 

I like the solution (!) proposed by Brendan, EI6IZ:

You can get an anti-static spray designed to treat carpet, upholstered furniture etc. This is a sensible thing to do if one tinkers with electronics and for the average hamshack a bottle will last for many years as it only needs to be applied lightly and infrequently.
For example http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/esd-safe-clean-room-treatments-lotions-dispensers/0182893/ For cheapskates however, diluted fabric softener sprayed on the carpet and chair will work well for at least a few months but will require much more frequent application than the 'proper stuff'.

I give my car seat an occasional squirt in dry summers to stop the 'zap' when getting out on a dry day.

73
Brendan EI6IZ

An Electro-Static Bandaid to Protect Sensitive LCD Displays

After the big East Coast blizzard,  the atmosphere in my ham shack became very dry.  I sit in one of those desk chairs with little plastic wheels.  The shack is carpeted.  So when I roll from operating bench to workbench,  the chair, the carpet, the dry air and I all become a kind of Van de Graaff generator.  Yesterday, my hand brushed against the 16X2 LCD display on my new R2 phasing receiver.  The pretty glowing numerals in that display disappeared in a small spark, never to return.

I swapped out another display I had, so all is well.  But the repair was a pain in the neck, involving the soldering of some 16 LCD pins, so I don't want to do it again.  I consulted with Pete Juliano N6QW who told me that this kind of LCD carnage is quite common in dry environments.  He said he had cured the problem by placing a small piece of Plexiglas in front of his displays. 

This got me thinking about those static protective bags that Digikey uses when shipping many of its components.  Might the material from these bags prevent the loss of another display? 

I retrieved a couple of these bags from the garbage and did a little test:

First, I rolled across the shack in the chair with a small screw-driver in hand.   At the other end of the shack lies my well-grounded DX-100 transmitter.  I moved the screwdriver close to the metal on-off switch.  SPARK!  It was visible, and quite audible in the AM broadcast receiver nearby. 

Next I taped a small piece of this material over the switch and repeated the ride in the chair.  No spark. Nada.  I repeated this several times and always got the same result.

It appears that the material in the bag helps dissipated the static discharge over a wider area, preventing the spark.  I quickly taped a piece of this material over the two LCD screens in my shack.  It's not pretty, but it is temporary, and cheaper than a humidifier.

I'm not going to try this on the actual screens, but I do think these small pieces of material will help prevent another accidental frying of an LCD display.

Here is the Wiki on anti-static bags: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antistatic_bag

And here is the data sheet on the bags that I am using:
http://documents.staticcontrol.com/PDF/Static_Shielding_Bag_1000_Series.pdf

Words of Wisdom for Homebrewers -- From Dave Metz, WA0AUQ

When you are done, be proud of what you have accomplished! Use it on the air and show it off to your friends an amaze them. Then clean the bench and start dreaming about your next project. 

David Metz, WA0AUQ

http://www.fpqrp.org/homebrew.html

Summary:

• Decide if its important to do
• Study the prior work of others
• Make a preliminary simple design, document everything you do!
• Round up your parts
• Build in modules! Make one module at a time work.
• Don't get discourage, ask questions, finish what you start

http://www.fpqrp.org/homebrew.html

There is a lot of tribal knowledge and homebrew wisdom in this link.  I tried to find a picture of OM Dave, but he has kept a low profile on the www.  The best I could come up with is a symbol of the club that he has been associated with.  Thanks Dave!

Here is the full document:
http://www.fpqrp.org/homebrew.html