Pete's Beautiful Tiny Color Display

Oh man, this is the kind of thing that lures me ever deeper into the digital morass.  That would be hard to do with my beloved discrete analog circuits!    Be sure to note the size (it is sitting on the top from a pill bottle -- you can also look at the pen for a size reference). It is 1.25 inches by 1.25 inches.  Pete has it working with the Si5351 software.  As you can see there is still room at the bottom of the display.  Pete notes that an SWR readout is possible.  And Pete got this device for FIVE BUCKS! 

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Broadening the Barebones Barbados Receiver

I've been working on the crystal filter of the Barbados Barebones Superhet receiver.  This was designed by Doug DeMaw in 1982.  This one was built by Dale Parfitt W4OP and then repeatedly modified by me.  It is now on 17 meters with a crystal-switchable VXO.    Earlier I had made a very crude attempt to broaden the filter from its original very narrow CW configuration.    This week I did this again, but this time I actually characterized the crystals and used Wes's LDA and GPLA software (from EMRFD) to design the filter.  

I played with the capacitor values and finally got the 3 kc bandwidth I wanted, but I'm having trouble getting rid of the ripple.   I know this is dependent on the impedances at the two ends.  The programs say I need 2000 ohms.   

I'm kind of puzzled about how Doug DeMaw did this with his original design.  For his crystals and his 250 Hz (!) bandwidth he said he needed 450 ohms.   He used 4.7:1 turns ratio transformers at either end and said that by putting 10k resistors across these transformers he got the needed impedance.  I can see how this would work looking into the gate of the 40673 IF amp, but looking back at the drain of the 40673 mixer, I'm not so sure that that would yield 10k. (See schematic below.)

But who am I to doubt Doug?   So I assumed he was correct about the 10K and I re-wound the transformers with a 2:1 turns ratio, thinking that would get me closer to the needed 2k.   But the ripple is still there.  I guess I could use a return loss bridge at this point... 

I don't know whether this is worth messing with anymore.  The receiver sounds nice.  The 3kHz bandwidth gives it a nice sound, and the ripple doesn't seem to be noticeable  That FAR circuits board is tightly packed and difficult to work with.  So, should I leave good enough alone, or should I proceed with fanatical ripple eradication.  Any advice?

BTW:  Why is it that receivers always seem to sound better when opened up (as above) on the workbench?  

 

 


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Kai's Redwood Mighty Mite with Poker-Chip Hacksaw Key

And Check out Kai's homebrew key:

Hi Pete,

 

  Thanks for your kind words.  I really enjoyed the MMM project, first analog oscillation .  Your right about the homebrew key being a hacksaw blade and a few pieces of plywood.  The knob is an old poker chip.  You can adjust the spring tention by moving the blade in and out of the plywood.  Travel can be adjusted by raising and lowering the bolt under the blade.  I needed something for CW and wanted to stick to the ham maker thing.  As for me sending lefty, I do that so I can switch when the right gets tired or I need to hold ipod for video.  Thanks for what you add to soldersmoke.  73.

 

Kai

Ps I will send picture of key.

On Monday, January 12, 2015, Pete Juliano <jessystems@verizon.net> wrote:

Hi Bill,

 

Wow –so cool! I was impressed with not only his M^3 but the homebrew key and sending with his left hand.

 

It would be nice for Kai to send us his details for the key.  It looked like a hacksaw blade sandwiched between some plywood blocks of wood and some sort of plastic tuning knob from a defunct transistor radio as the key knob. Now that is what I call homebrew –elegant and it works well!

 

73’s

Pete N6QW

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SolderSmoke Podcast #170 Double A DX-pedition, SI5351, Mighty Mites, Phasing Dreams

SolderSmoke Podcast #170 is available: 

http://soldersmoke.com/soldersmoke170.mp3

Bill's Double A, DSB, Dipole, Dominican DX-pedition.  
             Living the "How's DX?" Dream
Seeing the Southern Cross with Soviet Binoculars
Pete goes remote 
SI5351 a chip with a lot of potential
Pete's experiments with Nokia LCD displays 
Michigan Mighty Mites around the world
               The Postal Stream Roller
Steve Silverman's very kind variable cap offer
MOXON modeling with EZNEC
Aspirations for 2015

Our book: "SolderSmoke -- Global Adventures in Wireless Electronics" http://soldersmoke.com/book.htm Our coffee mugs, T-Shirts, bumper stickers: http://www.cafepress.com/SolderSmoke Our Book Store: http://astore.amazon.com/contracross-20

"Gentlemen, We have Oscillation!" Jacob's California Mighty Mite

Bill and Pete,

I bring news of the California Mighty Mite as Bill dubbed it.

I repeated the steps as documented in version two with Pete's parts. I had one hiccup. I was winding L1 with Pete's red wire when, on turn 42, I ran out. Luckily a search of the workroom revealed the last two coils of radio shack magnet wire that I bought with the Gold wire. I checked the thickness of the Green-coated wire and found it to be one gauge smaller than Pete's wire. To be ready in time for the podcast, the green wire would have to do. It was fussier that the larger gauge wires, but with my trusty electrical tape, the L1 coil stayed on the coil-form quite neatly. Using a scrap of gold wire, I wound L2 making sure to tape it evenly spaced.

Next I remeasured each of the parts to be soldered and arranged them in according to the Schematic. With the Soldering iron hot from warming while I would the coil, I detached the 365pf varicap from the MMv2. I strapped on the heatsink to the 2N3058 transistor and soldered the 27Ohm resistor to the Emitter. I attached one pole of the Colorburst crystal to the solder tab on the varicap along with the stripped end of L1 coil. I soldered the Collector to the Tap-2 of the L1 coil, then the Base to the other pole of the crystal. I then attached the 10k resistor to the base and attached another red-magnet wire to the side of the varicap. Almost done I looped a 47nF ceramic capacitor to the  2 power posts of a DC connector, then wrapped the Tap-1, 10k, and the lead from the varicap into the pin (positive) solder tab of the DC connector. I took a second red scrap and stripped the ends, stuck it in the sleeve (negative) solder tab.

Two applications of solder later, the multimeter was back out for a final continuity check. After checking across every joint, I plugged in my power supply to the Mighty Mite. Reaching over to the shortwave I leaned in the power button and tapped in the Colorburst frequency, 3-5-7-9. Static filled the room as I made sure the radio was how I left it earlier that week. SSB mode, attenuator off, and volume up. My finger tingled as caressed the straight key, now wired to the resistor and negative line. I was scared something would melt or flame up when I keyed down. Well no way to find out, except to do.

 The key spring resisted, but I felt metal below as the key bottomed out. The radio let out a sound like rubber going down a slide and faded as I held down the key.

Gentlemen, we have Oscillation.

Revision 3 was a success. Version 1 being breadboard and Version 2 being Bill's crystal and what I had on hand.

I tried tapping out CQ, but was faced with the chirping fact that I haven't practiced in a year. I don't even know TEST let alone CQ CQ KK6JTL TEST. I turned the varicap to see if the sick squeal got any better with adjustment. It did and the pitch out of the radio changed after a bit. I must be changing frequencies! I spun around and fired up the computer. The RTL-SDR would show me what I was doing and who may respond, along with who I might be interfering with.

With the waterfall display zoomed in, showing about 5kHz around 3579kHz, I went back to the Mighty Mite. I saw one CW QSO going on in 3575kHz and two other spikes at 3576-3578kHz. Any guess at what those are? I knew since Sunday night I had been listening to JT65-HF. I reached over and held the key down. A big red spike went up at 3576.5kHz

I waited for quiet and keyed down. I turned the varicap to lower the capacitance. The spike moved to a higher frequency. When the varicap was half out, the squeal began to sound like a tone again. Problem was I was still at 3578kHz and still stepping on the JT65 signals. I called my wife in in excitement to show her and asked her to help me tune the circuit to the official frequency. I'm going to leave the varicap there for now. So I start it at 3577 and have to dial it back to 3579 to operate. I can almost go to 3580 with this little Mighty Mite.

Finally I was curious. I had forgotten to check the output of the transistor Pete sent me on my LC meter. So I got the datasheet from the Internet. The BC547A I had used in Versions 1 & 2 were rated for 325mW. The 2N3058 is rated for 5W. Pete, how much power does this put into an antenna when fed with 12V? Apparently not enough to wake my Radioshack SWR/Power meter. But that thing is hungry. It needs more than 2 Watts for it to function correctly.

Pictures attached. The transistor heatsink looks like it it touching the varicap in the pictures but I made sure there is plenty of gap. Too bad none of the pictures of that gap turned out. The wiggle in the waterfall picture is due to me turning the varicap to show range. Pete left a grounding wire on the case of the crystal. I chose not to remove it, but did not attach it to anything.

Congratulations Jacob!  You really hung in there, overcoming obstacles including the US Postal Service's Crystal-Crushing Steam Roller.  The rig looks great! 



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Irish Mighty Mite

Hi Bill and Pete,

I couldn't stand it any longer, listening to you guys on the podcast and seeing all the Mighty Mites being built I had to have a go myself.  Concerned that I might plunge Soldersmoke into receivership if I asked for a free crystal to be posted to Ireland I used a 3.560MHz one, recently purchased from the GQRP club store.

2 amazing things happened when I was building it.

1) for the first time ever I had all the parts I needed in my junk box.  Since getting my licence in 2012 I've been gradually collecting and buying components.  It's so much easier when you find everything you need.

2) for the first time ever it worked straight away.  When I finished the last component I heard this voice from over my shoulder, it was Pete saying "Now go and noodle through the circuit and check your work"  Sure enough I'd missed one of the connections and everything else checked out ok.

So I plugged it in, hid behind the shack chair and turned it on.  Success!!!

Keep up the good work both of you!

73 de Chris EI6KH
Licensed since November 2012
Fists UK Member #15966
G-QRP Member #13730
Phoenix Radio Club Member
IRTS Member
MLS: IO63jk

Our book: "SolderSmoke -- Global Adventures in Wireless Electronics" http://soldersmoke.com/book.htm Our coffee mugs, T-Shirts, bumper stickers: http://www.cafepress.com/SolderSmoke Our Book Store: http://astore.amazon.com/contracross-20

W5RST's Mighty Mite + CQ article on Super Mite

I think Mike's MMM looks fine!   The CQ article he refers to has some very interesting ideas.   Here it is:  http://soldersmoke.com/SuperMite.pdf

Hi Bill (and Pete),

Well, mine is not as pretty as Chuck’s, but I put one together last weekend, too.  Before I added the lowpass filter, the output looked pretty ugly on the scope, but afterwards it was OK.  Mine puts out about 200 mW on 80 M. I’m thinking of trying the power modification from CQ to boost the power a bit (attached):  when you’re competing with W1AW on 3.5815, it can’t hurt! Sorry for the iPhone quality pictures...

73,

Mike

Michael McShan W5RST

Oklahoma City, OK

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