Ham Radio in the 1970s (and earlier, with some cool Jazz). What favorite rigs do you see?

Rogier PA1ZZ sent me this today.  I think I may have seen pieces of it before, but this restoration 

is really nice.  But ham radio seems to have been a lot cooler in California.  I don't remember it being so socially advantageous on the East Coast.   See Dilbert cartoon below. 

So many memories: 

-- The video opens with someone working on a QF-1 Q multipliers.  We have destroyed so many of these relics, in pursuit of the variable capacitors (which turn out to be not so good). 

-- A Drake 2-B on Field Day. 

-- An HT-37 in a shack.

--What looks like an HW-32a in a mobile rig. 

-- Maybe an HW-101. 

--  A BC-348. 

-- The ATV station with lots of homebrew gear was very cool. 

-- I also liked the single THERMATRON homebrew CW rig made from an old TV.  FB. 

-- The CW used in the video was all pretty good.  There was a lot of chirp.  This, of course, adds character to a signal.  FB.

After the video, they take a walk down memory lane, looking at ham radio magazines with some cool jazz playing in the background.  I saw a Swan 240 and a D-104.  The debauchery of the 1970s was evident on the magazine covers.  Even QST seemed to be caught up in this.  Check out the August 1975 cover of QST.  

Anyway, this video was a lot of fun.  Thanks Rogier!  

What favorite rigs do you see?   Make note of them in the comments. 

This video and the Dilbert cartoon reminded me of a discussion we had many years ago about THE KNACK: 

https://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2008/11/cry-for-help-soldersmoke-responds.html

Happy New Year! Straight Key Night at N2CQR (video)

As you know, here at SolderSmoke East HQ we are all about TRADITION.  So last night (New Year's eve) I fired up my venerable HT-37 / Drake 2-B combo and made a few Straight Key Night (SKN) contacts on 40 meter CW.  I was indeed using my straight key.  Video above. 

Also, be sure to check out CuriousMarc's very cool New Year's clock video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZmEz-Y1FFM

Happy New Year to all.  May you make good progress on your homebrew projects, and may the radio gods act favorably on your behalf.  

73 es HNY de N2CQR 

The Beginning of MY Radio Life...

 

Unlike Pete (see below), I don't have any cool pictures of me in front of an early station.   But in the picture above,  there I am, at the Thanksgiving table in 1973 age 15.  I was on the air by this date, on CW as WN2QHL.  Armed with a Lafayette HA-600A and a DX-40, I was tearing up the ham bands, especially 40 meters.  Look at the tension in my face, the grip of my fist... I just wanted to finish that turkey and get on the air!  But no, I had to have Thanksgiving dinner. 

I recently realised that I have been a ham for more than 50 years. Is there an HCWA?    

This and the recent movie from India led me to think about the timeline of my early radio days: 

-- Christmas 1972.  Santa brings me a Lafayette HA-600A general coverage receiver.  With jeweled movements.  Age:  14

-- April 27, 1973.  Novice Ticket becomes effective.  WN2QHL.  Age 14. 

-- July 19, 1973.  First contact (with Elmer WN2NEC).  Age 14.

-- February 1 and 2 1973.  A grumpy old-timer calls -- during the Novice Roundup! -- to tell me that I'm putting harmonics onto the 20 meter band.  I get scared and go off the air.  Geez!  I probably just needed to retune the tank circuit.  Age 15. 

-- February 23, 1974.  I go back on the air with a DX-100.  Age 15. 

-- March 5, 1974.  I take the General Class exam at the FCC office in New York City. I pass. Age 15. 

-- April 11, 1974.  I buy the Drake 2-B from WN2NEC. This revolutionizes my radio life.  Fifteen meter contacts become possible.   Age 15. 

-- April 13, 1974.  I work ZL2ACP on 15 meter CW.  I wake up my parents to tell them.  Age 15. 

-- April 21, 1974.  END OF NOVICE OPERATION.  Apparently we were still working under a one year limitation on Novice operation.  Could the expiration date have been marked on the license? 

At this point the FCC screwed up and sent me a Technician License instead of a General Class License.  My father got on the phone to Gettysburg and straightened this out.  Thanks Dad.  So I was only a Technician for a few weeks. 

-- April 9, 1974.  General Class License effective.  I become WB2QHL,  a man of substance.  Age 15. 

-- May-June 1974.  I acquire a Heathkit HW-32A 20 meter SSB transceiver from the Crystal Radio Club.  But I have to build the power supply from an old TV.  Somehow, I survive. Age 15. 

-- June 11, 1974.  First contact with the HW-32A.  Age 15.   

-- November 9, 1974.  Last contact with the HW-32A . Age 16. 

-- March 15, 1975.  First contact with my Hallicrafters HT-37. Age 16. 

Above is my only photo of my teenage ham radio station.  I can date it via the QSL card above the map. I still have that card.  I worked W7RUK on March 25, 1975.  That contact was on 20 SSB, but when this picture was taken I was on CW (the key is plugged in, not the microphone).   

-- June 1976   I graduate from High School.  Age 17.  

-- I was active and on the air through the summer of 1976. 

-- July 1976 -- QST article on the Herring Aid 5 receiver.  I try to build it and fail.  Age 17. 

-- October 1976 -- I depart for Army Basic Training. 

There is someone else who needs honorable mention here:  My sister Trish.  Here she is, next to me at the Thanksgiving table in 1973.  Trish helped me keep my ham radio log book.  Thanks Trish! 

Pete Juliano, Field Day, 1959.  With a DX-100B and (gasp!) a QF-1. 

Why Do Some VFOs Tune More Linearly Than Others?

This has been one of the major complaints about our beloved analog LC VFOs:   The frequency tuning on these circuits is often not linear.  For given amount of VFO frequency dial turn you can get vastly different changes in frequency.  At one end of the tuning range the frequencies are nicely spaced and tuning is easy.  But at the other end of the tuning range all of the frequencies are bunched together.  This is one of the problems that leads some homebrewers to defect to the sad land of "digital VFOs." 

But wait.  It appears that the old designers found a solution to this problem.  Just look at the tuning dial of my HT-37.  The frequencies are all spaced out evenly.  How did they do that? 

I had been thinking that this success may have resulted from Hallicrafters' engineers using the series-tuned Clapp circuit.  Here the main frequency determining element is a series-tuned LC circuit and not the parallel tuned LC circuit that we see in the more commonly used Colpitts circuit.  

But hold on -- how could that be?  The frequency bunching problem that we attributed to the Colpitts circuit must also exist in the Clapp, right?  I went back to SSDRA where there was a good discussion of Colpitts and Clapp VFOs.  The advantage of the Clapp was said to be in its use of a larger value coil which helped minimize the effects of stray inductances.  But there was no mention of the Clapp offering improved linearity in tuning.  

I have in front of me two transceivers:  The Mythbuster uses a 9 MHz Clapp circuit (see below).  The 17-12 rig uses a Colpitts Circuit.  I checked the tuning linearity of both.  Both appeared quite linear in tuning, with no real difference between the two.  

Then I looked at the tuning capacitor in the Mythbuster 17-12 rig.  It came out of an old Hallicrafters transmitter, probably the HT-44.  I looked closely at the stator and the rotor plates.  Both are curved.  I'm guessing that this may yield a more constant change in capacitance for a given movement of the main tuning dial.  

Next I opened up the VFO on the Mythbuster.  (It is the VFO from an old Yaesu FT-101.)  I couldn't see the stators very well but it appears that their shape is different from the square shape we often see in variable capacitors.  Could it be that this variable capacitor was also made to provide linear tuning?  

Back in 2013 Norm Johnson wrote about all this in the Antique Radios.com forum: 

A capacitor that has uniform increase in capacitance with rotation will have the stations at the high end of the band squeezed together. Another type known as the straight-line frequency variable capacitor has, as you might guess, a characteristic that gives even spacing of frequencies with shaft rotation. These were popular in the 1920's but weren't very good for superhets where you needed to have a dual section capacitor that would tune both the RF and local oscillator, and have them track each other properly. The midline variable capacitor is more compatible with a superhet, and easier to make both sections track properly. This is the type that you see in most receivers from the late 1930's to the end of the tube era. They don't have quite the equal spacing between stations across the band that the old straight-line frequency caps had, but they're much better than the variables that change capacitance linearly with rotation.

I wrote an online calculator that helps in the design of the tuning. It shows what frequency range you'll get with a specific type of variable capacitor, including the effects of padder and trimmer capacitors. It also displays a dial scale that shows how the frequencies are lined up accross the dial.
http://electronbunker.ca/eb/BandspreadCalc.html

Steve W6SSP also provided some really good info back in 2013: 

There are three types of open, variable plate caps;
SLC= straight line capacitance where the capacitance varies linearly,
these are the most common and have half-circle plates
SLF= straight line frequency where the plates are tapered to allow
for linear tuning of the frequency
SLW= straight line wavelength, you get the idea...

SLF and SLW caps have oblong plates.

The effect on tuning a receiver can be dramatic. One example is the
Hammarlund SP series of receivers where the ham bands are very
compressed at one end of the tuning range. They used SLC caps
in the VFO. On the other hand rigs like the Kenwood TS-520
and FT-101 series have linear tuning across each band. These use
SLF variable caps. Most old 1920's battery radios used SLW
where stations were identified by their wavelength.
Steve W6SSP

These two variable caps came out of my junkbox.  Both are Eddystones, made in England.  My guess is that the one on the left is SLF.  But could the one on the right (out of an old regen) be SLW?   

The Drake 2-B also has perfectly linear tuning.  I looked at the manual:  "The tuning condenser is of special design..."   I'm guessing that they used an SLF variable capacitor. The 2-B had no need for ganged capacitors -- the "preselector" was tuned via a separate front panel control. 

I looked at the tuning dials on my Hammarlund HQ-100 receiver.   It is fairly linear in its tuning, but not as linear as the HT-37 or the Drake 2-B; on all of the tuning ranges the frequencies seem to spread out a bit at the lower end.  My guess is that Hammarlund used the midline variable described above by Norm Johnson.  The HQ-100 did use a ganged variable cap, with one section tuning the RF amplifier and the other tuning the local oscillator. 

Mythbuster on the bottom.  17-12 rig on the top

Solid-Stating an HT-37 VFO -- Advice Needed

 

Original HT-37 VFO Circuit

A couple of things before I start:  

First, this is not my fault.  The Radio Gods are to blame.  I innocently tried to by an HT-37 tuning capacitor on e-bay, but the seller sent me the entire VFO unit.  The only thing missing was THE TUBE. Clearly, that was a sign, right?  

Second, this is a work in progress.  That is why my diagram (below) is a bit ugly.  I am looking for your input and advice on how I might do this better.  I will understand if religious principles prevent some of you from participating in this endeavor. 

I am trying to solid-state this device WITHOUT major surgery, and without adding any reactive components that would change the resonance or tuning range of the original.  The original circuit tunes from 5 to 5.5 MHz and that is fine with me.  

I started out by just sticking a J-310 FET into pins 1, 2, and 5 of the tube socket.  I put 12 V on the drain and the thing oscillated right where it is supposed to.  That was a good sign.  

Here is what I have done so far: 

Bill's initial solid state conversion of HT-37 VFO

Mechanically, my effort has been very simple.  At first I tried to fashion a more serious male socket for the FET using two broken 7 pin tubes.  This didn't work well.   

So then I just ran three short wires up through the center hold of the tube socket to the connections for pins 1,2, and 5.   I superglued the J-301 to the chassis and made some non-reactive connections: I put a 47 ohm resistor on the source,  and a 220 ohm resistor on the drain. I grounded the drain for RF with a .01 uF cap to ground.    I added a 100k resistor and a diode on the gate.   Oh yea, I put a couple of ferrite bead on the FET gate lead.  (See pictures below.)

Three lead up through the center hole

A rare look inside an HT-37 VFO

The original thermatron circuit has an output bandpass transformer, a 3900 ohm resistor and a coupling cap.  I left them in the circuit, but they are not doing anything. 

The output from the source of the FET looks pretty good.  I can see some VHF on the trace, but I suspect this is from my FM broadcast nemesis at 100.3 FM (one mile away).  On a receiver, I can hear some AF noise on the signal, but this may be the result of the RFI from THE BIG 100 -- WASHINGTON'S CLASSIC ROCK. 

So what do you folks think?  What else could I do, or should I do?  

Linear Tuning in the HT-37

I just kind of like this picture.  This is the HT-37 dial that came with the HT-37 VFO assembly I recently bought.  Note the retro designation: KILOCYCLES.  And note the nice, even, linear spacing of the VFO. This VFO runs 5 -5.5 MHz.  The circuit is a series-tuned Clapp.  That circuit seems to be one of the secrets of getting linear tuning -- to avoid the common situation of having all the upper frequencies kind of bunched together at the end of the capacitor's tuning range.  I notice that this circuit was used in the Galaxy V VFO and in the VFO of the Yaesu FT-101, both notably linear in their tuning.   

Another HT-37 VFO -- No Temperature Compensation Trimmer Capacitor?

Is that thing beautiful or what?  That is the VFO assembly from an HT-37.  This one includes the fly-wheel mechanism.  It tunes 5 - 5.5 MHz.  I'll probably replace the tube with an FET, but mostly keep it as is for use in a future transceiver.  It is built like a battleship.  Hallicrafters did not mess around with the solidity of VFO construction.  

I was a bit disappointed when I did not see the split stator temperature compensation trimmer cap that was present on the Hallicrafters variable cap that I bought back in February 2021: 

https://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2022/02/differential-temperature-compensation.html  

I took a look inside my own (beloved) HT-37 and saw that it too lacks the temp compensation trimmer that came with the February 2021 variable cap.  Could it be that the February 2021 seller had the source wrong?  Could he have in fact been selling me the variable cap from an HT-32?  Or could it be that Hallicrafters added this split stator temp compensation capacitor to later versions of the HT-37?  

Hallicrafters patented the split stator temp compensation circuit (U.S. patent #2718617).  Chuck Dachis says in his book about Hallicrafters that the company had perfected this circuit by 1957.  

An HT-32B transmitter was selling for $725 in 1963.  That's $7020 in today's money.   Wow, and that is just for the transmitter!  

Working On My Old Hammarlund HQ-100 (Part 1)

I like this old receiver, with all its shortcomings.  I picked it up in the Dominican Republic in 1993 or 1994.  I've been using it on AM with my K2ZA DX-100.   It needed some contact cleaner, and I took the opportunity to work on a few of the circuits that were getting kind of decrepit. 

I came to a new understanding of -- and appreciation for -- the Q-multiplier.

While of similar vintage, this receiver is MUCH nicer than the Hallicrafters S-38E: 

S-38E 1957-61 $54.95 5 tubes.  AC/DC, kind of flimsy. 

HQ-100 1956-60 $169  10 or 11 tubes.  Power supply,  regulator,  much sturdier construction

You get what you pay for.   

 In Part II I'll show you how this thing sounds and what it is like to use it for SWL, CW, SSB and AM. 

"Patrolling the Ether" WWII Video on Radio Direction Finding Efforts

I heard about this video while trying to track down information on John Stanley Anderson's 1939 television receiver.  "Patrolling the Ether" is kind of hard to find.  It is not really on YouTube.  But there is a good BARC Vimeo video about WWII RDF efforts that includes at the end the full "Patrolling the Ether" video.  

Here it is:  

https://vimeo.com/415926991

Thanks to BARC and to Brian Harrison for putting this together. 

In the video, they discuss the invention of the Panadaptor by Dr. Marcel Wallace F3HM  during World War II.   I set up a very crude Panadaptor using Wallace's principals:

https://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2019/05/diy-waterfall-quick-and-easy-panadaptor.html

The Next Time You Hear Someone Complaining About Winding Toroids....

... send them this video. 

Lin is in Hong Kong. What a great job she does with very simple tools.  Notice how she casually mentions that for those parts that have been lost, she will make them herself.  Three cheers for Lin! 

This video reminded me of the people in Santo Domingo 25 years ago who rewound the transformers and RF chokes from my HT-37.  These parts still work.  

Chuck KF8TI recently told me that when he was a Peace Corps Volunteer in the Philippines (1965-1967) he visited a transformer re-winding shop there, seeing piles of insulation and wire on the floor.  Apparently business was good!  

Lin's YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpPt42tLH5FRk__ytvMsejw

Differential Temperature Compensation Capacitors in the Hallicrafters HT-37 Main VFO Tuning Circuit

 

I've been watching with great interest Mike WU2D's excellent series on VFO construction.  His second video is especially interesting because he talks about how we can use a split stator differential capacitor to build a temperature compensation circuit that will allow us to "dial in" the proper amount of temperature compensation.  

The heart of this circuit is the split stator differential capacitor.  The stator is split; but there is a common rotator. As the rotator moves, the capacity across one part of the capacitor increases while the other part decreases -- thus the total capacity remains unchanged.  If we connect two capacitors of the same capacitance BUT OF OPPOSITE TEMPERATURE CHARACTERISTICS -- we can use this split stator cap to select just the right amount of temperature compensation.   Very cool.  Even cooler:  Mike actually built a split stator differential capacitor.  That, my friends, is dedication. 

I was sitting here this morning thinking about all this when it occurred to me that right in front of me was a capacitor that might be relevant to all this (see above).  I bought it on e-bay one year ago after Pete N6QW had alerted me to it.  It is the main tuning capacitor from an HT-37 transmitter.  What attracted us was the big anti-backlash mechanism.  But now I realized that it had another charming feature.  

Looking at it a bit more closely I saw a split stator differential cap just like the one that Mike had made.  Attached to the two rotors were two tubular capacitors.  The three caps are in parallel with the main tuning cap.  Bingo -- this is a temp compensation circuit.  

I checked the HT-37 manual.  The manual says that temp compensation is set at the factory.  OK.  But the schematic does not show the split stator caps and the two tubular caps (see below).  Could it have been that this circuit was added later perhaps to address drift? (We do see it in the HT-32B schematic -- see below.)

HT-37 VFO SCHEMATIC

Anyway, it was very cool to find this example of the circuit Mike was discussing.  In the photo at the beginning of this post you can see the three caps.  Below you can see the split stator cap in the background. 

In the comments a reader points out correctly that this circuit was discussed in the ARRL book "Single Sideband for the Radio Amateur."  Indeed, it is on page 51 of the 1970 edition, ARRL  gave credit for the circuit to Hallicrafters: 

HT-32B VFO Circuit

Joe Carr K4IPV (SK) also discussed this circuit.  In his article in Popular Electronics in August 1993, he too gave credit to Hallicrafters.  Carr also gave some detailed instructions on how to use the circuit to stabilize a VFO.  See pages 78 and  79 of the August 1993 Poptronics: 

https://worldradiohistory.com/Archive-Poptronics/90s/93/PE-1993-08.pdf

Straight Key Night 2021/2022 (Videos) -- Happy New Year!

I made a few contacts on 40 meter CW using my old Hallicrafters HT-37 and Drake 2-B. 

Happy New Year to all!  73   Bill 

Gloria -- A Netflix Series about a Shortwave Broadcast Station in Portugal

Rarely if ever will we come across a high quality NETFLIX series built around a shortwave broadcast transmitter.  But that is what we have in Gloria.    It is really good.  We were especially interested in it because we lived in Portugal for three years. In addition to all the intrigue and drama you will catch glimpses of broadcast antennas, big transmitting tubes,  and one out-of-focus shot of what appears to be a Hallicrafters receiver (SX-42?)   

More info here: 

https://www.forbes.com/sites/sheenascott/2021/11/13/gloria-netflixs-first-original-series-from-portugal-is-a-great-spy-thriller/?sh=446cef9b30d7

Here's the NETFLIX link: 

https://www.netflix.com/title/81073977

Thanks to Thomas K4SWL of SWLing Post for the heads up. 

SSB History -- The Tucker Tin 2 (and 3) with a 1961 Recording. Hallicrafters FPM-200 Video by W9RAN

There is so much important SSB history in this video from Bob Nichols, W9RAN.  I liked all of it,  but the on-the-air recording of a 1961 transmission from a Tucker Tin 3 was really amazing.  Check it out. 

Here is the 2014 SolderSmoke blog post about the Tucker Tin 2. You can see the 1961 schematic here: 

https://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2014/09/kiwi-lunchbox-sideband-tucker-tin-two.html

As you can see this is a very simple phasing-type SSB rig.  The SSB generator is crystal controlled at the operating frequency.  

Thanks to Bob W9RAN, and thanks to Peter Parker VK3YE for posting about this video on the SolderSmoke Facebook Page. 

 

The Chatham Islands

Meet Your New Soviet Neighbor -- With Hallicrafters

 

Thanks to Jeff Murray for alerting us to this.  It is obviously from World War II.   If the new neighbors had S-38s, well, that might help explain why things didn't go so well.  

Twenty-nine S-38s on Craig's List

This is almost like a nightmare.  I guess it could be worse -- they could all be E models. 

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/ele/d/arlington-twenty-nine-29-variouss/7188621508.html

Thanks to Jim W3BH for alerting us to this, uh, opportunity. 

Knack Story -- Tom WX2J

RTTY Model 15

Hello Bill,

Greetings from a fellow ham in Northern Virginia. I have enjoyed the SolderSmoke podcast for a few years now, and I just heard your recent presentation to the Vienna Wireless Society. We have a lot in common so it is about time I reach out to make your acquaintance.

I was born in NYC and grew up in Northern NJ. I was first licensed in 1969 as a high school student (51 years ago! Goodness!). My novice callsign was WN2JFX, and I progressed from Novice and then to General and Advanced as WB2JFX, and then eventually to Extra (in about 1990 -- while the 20 WPM code requirement still existed). At that point I put in for a 2X1 callsign and received WX2J, which is a nice twist on my original call.

I was fanatically active in my early years in ham radio. My Elmer (George, K2VVI, SK) set me up with a DX-40, and my parents provided a brand new Hallicrafters S-120 (you could copy the whole 40 meter band without changing the frequency!). I think I Worked all States as a Novice and learned that the human brain is the most amazing audio filter on the market. When I made General, George lent me an old Hallicrafters SX-25, and then I was really in good shape. Besides CW, I was also very interested in RTTY. I had my own Model 15 leaking oil in the basement and had a blast watching the magic of that thing printing messages out of thin air. I have always been a home-brewer, and one of the first serious things I built was a two- or three-tube RTTY demodulator from the Handbook. Aluminum chassis, chassis punches, tube sockets -- the whole works. I have no idea what the real inductance was of the inductors that went into the filters but somehow if the signals were strong enough, and on 850 Hz shift, it could actually demodulate signals. I probably still have that thing around here somewhere.

Another local ham bequeathed me his entire collection of 73 magazines - 10+ years starting with the first issue (~1960). I read them from cover to cover so many times I probably have them memorized. I became a real fan of Wayne Green, W2NSD, who was always ornery and controversial but a very interesting guy. I met him at a hamfest many years later and we had a great chat.

In any case I wanted to mention some other things that resonate with me as I listen to your podcast. As a kid growing up in the shadow of NYC in those years, you can bet that the Jean Shepherd broadcast was a regular part of our life. My dad used to listen to it every night -- 10:15 p.m. I believe, on WOR -- and we both used to greatly enjoy his stories of lighting up the fuse panel and nearly blowing up the house as he and his old man were playing with radios, etc. It was a common theme in our house too when my ham radio signal would blast into the TV set or I dangled new antenna wires off the house and out of the trees -- "You're going to blow this house up!" I studied electrical engineering in college and was commissioned in the Air Force upon graduation. I served a 20-year career in the Air Force and stayed somewhat active in ham radio. I was licensed and operated out of Okinawa (KA6TF) and England (G5ERE) during tours of duty in the early 1980s. Always an HF guy, in about 1982, in Japan, I bought myself a new Icom IC-720A, and this is still my primary rig. I was an early adopter of PK-232 and did some extensive building and experimenting with it. Sadly though, in the last 25+ years, my ham radio experience has mostly been vicarious as my work and family obligations have just not left much time for ham radio. I do have a G5RV wire antenna strung up but very rarely jump on the air -- sometimes during contests.

In high school we made a field trip to ARRL HQ in Newington, CT. While there we did all the things people do on such a visit, but one of the high points for me was meeting Doug DeMaw. I can just hear how Shepherd would describe it -- "I turned the corner and there he was! In person! The high priest of homebrewing! Doug DeMaw. In the flesh!" Cue the kazoo. I actually also met Shepherd at a book signing (Wanda Hickey's Night of Golden Memories?). I remember presenting him with a computer-printed banner of his callsign -- K2ORS -- produced by one of the few functioning computer programs I had written in high school. I also heard him on the HF bands one night -- I think he was in Florida -- and actually made contact with him, if barely being able to exchange callsigns can count as a contact.

Well, more than you wanted to know. I just wanted to let you know that I enjoy your podcast and can personally relate to very much of what you say. Although I am steeped in Hardware Defined Radio, I am also a software guy so I expect that my future includes SDR. I hope you and Pete are able to continue the podcast for a long time to come because I need the full HDR-SDR spectrum to be covered -- hi.

73,

Tom Fuhrman, WX2J

SSB Transceivers of the 1960s --- Videos by Mike WU2D

I liked both these videos.  Mike WU2D really does a great job.  He covers a LOT of technology and theory in two videos.  Thanks Mike!  

Double Trouble: Notes on TWO Hallicrafters S-38E Restorations and Alignments (with videos)

Winterfest S-38E on the left, junker on the right 

I have been talking bad about the Hallicrafters S-38E receiver for several years now.  For a long time I agreed with my friend Pete Juliano in his colorful description of the receiver: "a pig with lipstick."

But as I've gotten to know the receiver better, I have come to like it.   It is very simple.  There is a certain minimalist thing that explains the attraction; it is a challenge to make the most of this very low-budget 1950's receiver.  It uses tubes, but the voltage is not really in the very lethal range.  It covers a wide range of frequencies.  Its frequency stability is fairly good.   And it sounds great on AM (scroll to the bottom to listen).  It seems to be technologically related to the Echophone EC-1 -- we have been posting about the WWII  advertisements featuring Hogarth and his (unbelievable) efforts to attract women with this receiver.  

The S-38E has a big "picture window" frequency dial, marked with exotic foreign locations (Java!).  I share with it a similar vintage with the S-38E:  IGY.  The S-38E was produced from 1957-1961.  Duck and cover my friends; the CONELRAD frequencies are marked on the dial. Working on these two receivers has kept me busy during the first few days of the COVID-19 emergency. 

I now own two of these things. I might get a third.   I thought it would be worthwhile to write up my experiences with the S-38E.  I hope this information will be of use to others who might work on this piece of gear.   

Winterfest RX on the left, junker on the right

SHOCKINGLY BAD? 

I had an S-38E as a kid.   Around 1980, I gave it to my cousin Mary's husband Mike so he could listen to shortwave broadcasts. Recently I asked him about that S-38E -- he said it had given him a nasty shock.  That was because of the "transformer-less" AC/DC power supply -- if you plugged the AC line cord in "the wrong way" you would be putting 115 V AC on the chassis.  Ouch.  

AC/DC DESTROYS AN ANTENNA COIL

I picked up an S-38E at a Vienna Wireless Winterfest a few years ago.  I think I paid ten bucks.  I didn't pay attention to the polarity of the AC plug and managed to plug it in the wrong way. Then I managed to short the antenna terminal to what turned out to be a very AC hot (115V) chassis.    This destroyed a significant portion of the antenna coil.  Smoke was released.  

ISOLATION TRANSFORMER

Not wanting to repeat the hot chassis disaster, I installed an isolation transformer.  On the junker,  I used the Triad N-49X,  available from Digikey. In retrospect I probably should have gone with the larger, 35 watt  N-51X, but Fred KC5RT provided a great suggestion that would make the smaller N-49X adequate:  Run the filaments in series DIRECTLY from the AC line, with neither side of the AC line to the chassis.  Then run the rest of the circuitry through the isolation transformer.  This would take a lot of current out of that little transformer and would likely make replacement with a larger unit unnecessary. I will try this later. Update: 2 April 2020:   I tried to run the S-38E with the filaments in series fed with AC directly from the line cord and the rest of the circuit running through the isolation transformer.  I got it working this way.  Sort of.  But AC hum was a lot louder and I found myself back in the AC/DC transformerless situation with the chassis going hot if the set is plugged in "the wrong way."  So I retreated, going back to having the whole receiver running off the isolation transformer.  The hum went back to the earlier (normal) level and the chassis would not go hot no matter how I plugged it in. 

On the Winterfest S-38E it looks like I had used a larger isolation transformer. 

I put a 500 ma fuse in the primary circuit.  On the N-48X the black lines are primary, the red are secondary.  One black line goes to the fuse, then on to the front panel on/off switch.  The other side of the switch goes to the AC line.   The other side of the AC line goes to the other black line.  Neither of the AC lines goes to chassis.  On the secondary side, one of the red lines goes to Pin 4 of V5 (rectifier); the other goes to the B- line which is Pin 3 of V3 the 12AV6 which is also connected to the volume control.  I put the isolation transformer on the top side of the chassis.  It ends up close to the speaker, and fairly close to the AF output transformer.  This raises hum concerns. 

Where I placed the isolation transformer on both my S-38Es

HUM?  

I did a test to see if my placement of the isolation transformer was adding to the hum.  I simply took the S-38E back to its original transformer-less configuration and then listened to the hum.  I noticed no difference and concluded that the isolation transformer is NOT adding to the hum. If there is a difference, I'd say that there is less hum with the isolation transformer.  (And yes, I did make sure the AC line plug was in the correct way with the old power supply configuration.) 

See what you think:  





The hum is not really a problem. You can only hear it when the volume control is turned all the way down.  As soon as you turn the volume control to the right,  band noise overwhelms the hum and you can't hear it any more.  I think this was the normal condition of this very economical receiver. 

The two receivers have different speakers.  The Winterfest speaker measures 7.6 ohms (DC) and the junker has a 3 ohm speaker (closer to that called for in the schematic). I think the 3 ohm speaker results in somewhat less hum. 


REPAIRING/REPLACING THE ANTENNA COIL

After the smoke release, I tried to re-wind the burned out portions of the antenna coil on the Winterfest S-38E, but I got tired of the project, cursed all S-38s, and sent mine to the basement/crawl space.  I would have given it away, but I was afraid that the recipient would electrocute himself.   So it sat in the basement for a couple of years.  Recently I got interested in shortwave listening again, so I pulled out the S-38E.  

On e-bay, I found and bought an S-38 antenna coil.   I put it in my S-38E, hoping that it would bring the receiver back to life. But I had a lot of trouble with the front end alignment.  I theorized that the coil I had bought was from the original model of the S-38, and perhaps the S-38E coil had different inductances.  So I went back to e-bay.  There I found a junker S-38E being sold by Mark W1MEM.  It had been owned by KA1WFY.    

At the suggestion of Scott W1NB on the AntiqueRadio forum, before installing the coil from the junker, I measured the inductances of the S-38E coil and the previously obtained S38 coil.   I was surprised to find that the values were almost identical.  That meant that my theory about coil inductance differences was incorrect.  But I took the S-38E coil from the junker and put it in my S-38E.  I took note of the fact that the junker did not in fact look like junk, but there it was, sitting on the floor of the workshop, having had its antenna coil extracted.  And I had in hand the old S-38 coil that I knew from testing was very close in value to the S-38E coil.  

I was kind of getting tired of S-38s at this point, and I thought about leaving work on the junker S-38 for another day (or another year, or decade), but familiarity with the innards of the rig and alignment procedures is perishable, so I decided to try to get the junker going while it as all still fresh in my mind.  I installed the isolation transformer mod on the junker and put the S-38 antenna coil in.   That is how I came to own a second S-38E. 

RF ALIGNMENT PROBLEMS

One of the problems I had was that the alignment instructions for the S-38E are very sparse.  For the front end alignment, they just tell you to put signal generator signal into the antenna terminal, put a meter or scope on the audio output then tweak the antenna and oscillator coils for max output. I had no trouble getting the oscillator on the right frequency -- for bands 2 and 3 that would be the signal frequency PLUS .455 MHz.  For Band 4 it would be signal frequency minus .455 MHz.  But I could not get the LC circuit in the front end to peak on the input frequency.   Now, if you have the peak for the input LC circuit in the wrong place, your receiver will still work (sort of) but image rejection will be even more horrible than it is designed to be.  

For example,  assume you want to tune a strong signal at 7.0 MHz.  Your VFO is at 7.455 MHz.  The difference frequency is .455 MHz.  This signal goes through the IF transformers and you hear the signal. 

But now tune down .910 MHz to 6.09 MHz.   Your VFO will be at 6.545 MHz.  7.0 - 6.455 = .455    Unless the front end LC filter blocks the strong signal at 7.0 MHz, it will also show up at 6.09 MHz on your dial.  If the S-38E is aligned properly, that front end LC circuit will track the tuned frequency.   In this case it will be peaked at 6.09 MHz and the strong signal from 7.0 MHz will not get through.  Oh happy day! That 7.0 MHz signal shows up only on one place on the dial.  All is right with the universe. 

Of course there is another image problem.  If you are tuned to 3.9 MHz, your VFO is at 4.355 MHz.  If a shortwave broadcaster fires up on 4.81 MHz, well 4.81 - 4.355 = .455   That is why I can hear "Brother Stair" raging away, seemingly at 3.9 MHz.  Even if a simple receiver like this is properly aligned, a powerful shortwave broadcast signal will often get past the puny single LC circuit in the front end.  

But what happens if the S-38E is misaligned?  What happens if that LC circuit is peaking above the desired frequency? 

Now when you tune to 6.09 MHz, the front end tuned circuit may be peaked at say 6.5 MHz.  There is only one tuned circuit in this receiver front end, so the "skirts" are quite wide.  Wide enough to let that 7.0 MHz signal through to the mixer where it mixes with the 6.545 MHz VFO output to produce a very audible output.   This is what was happening when my S-38E was misaligned.  The 40 meter ham band and the 75 meter hambands were both showing up at two places on the dial.  After alignment, this problem disappeared.   

I realized later what my problem was:  I was putting far too much faith in the accuracy of the frequency readout needle on the front panel of the S-38E.  Many of these receivers had had their dials restrung over the years, so in many cases the placement of the needle was significantly off. 

MY RF ALIGNMENT METHOD

What you really need to do is this:  At first, don't pay much attention to where the red or yellow frequency indicators are pointing.  View them as rough measures.  Put a signal generator across on the A1 antenna terminal, with ground from the sig gen going to both A2 and GND.  Then put a scope probe across the same A1 -A2/GND terminals.  On Band 2 set your sig generator to, say, 4.0 MHz.   Tune the main tuning dial UNTIL YOU SEE A BIG DIP ON THE SCOPE.  At that point your front end is tuned to 4.0 MHz.    Now, you need to set the oscillator coil to 4.455 MHz.  I used a separate general coverage receiver (Radio Shack DX-390) tuned to this frequency.   I slowly tuned the trimmer on the oscillator coil until I could hear the oscillartor on 4.455 MHz on the DX-390.  At this point the front end is in alignment.  

It might not be that easy at first.  You may need to use the LC trimmer and the oscillator trimmer to kind of "walk" the two desired frequencies close to each other.  But by doing this, I was able to get the LC circuit to peak at the frequency at which the VFO was .455 MHz above the freq at which the LC signal peaked (the desired signal frequency).  Now, you may notice that the red frequency indicator is not at 4.0 MHz exactly.

Later I decided to tackle this problem of front panel calibration.  I decided to only worry about Band 2 (1.6 -5.0 MHz) and Band 3 (4.8-14.5 MHz). 

I picked two frequencies on these two bands that would use the same position of the red tuning pointer.  (I put they yellow bandspread pointer at 0. )  I chose 9 MHz and 3.1 MHz. 

For Band 3,  at 9 MHz I set up my sig gen and scope as described above.  With the sig gen on 9 MHz,  I tuned the main tuning dial for a dip at 9 MHz.  Then, keeping the tuning cap at the same spot, I moved the red pointer to exactly 9 MHz. (I just pinched the cord to the front panel with my finger and slid the red pointer down along the cord a bit.  I then turned on my general coverage receiver, set it to 9.455 MHz and turned oscillator  trimmer H (see above) until I heard the VFO at that frequency. 

I then moved the S-38E to Band 2.  I set the sig gen to 3.1 MHz.   Leaving the main tuning cap and the red pointer exactly where they were, I tuned the antenna coil trimmer L until I saw the dip on my scope.  I then turned the general coverage receiver on to 3.555 MHz and tuned oscillator trimmer K until I heard the oscillator signal at that frequency.  

The S-38E was then aligned for RF on Bands 2 and 3 with fairly good front dial calibration.  

Here is how to tell if you've got it lined up right.  Tune to the 75 meter band on Band 2 or to the 40 meter band on band 3.   Then tune 910 kHz BELOW where you found the ham band.  Do you hear the ham chatter in that second location on the dial?  If you do, the signal strength should be significantly lower than the signal strength 910 KHz up.  If you don't hear it at all, great.  If you hear it at significantly reduced strength, that's OK too.  the S-38E has only ONE tuned circuit between the mixer and the antenna, so you can't expect really great image attenuation. But if you hear the image at the same strength (or stronger!) than the desired signal, you have placed the peak of the antenna input tuned circuit in the wrong place.  See above. Try it again.  

IF ALIGNMENT

IF alignment was relatively easy:  I put a 455 kHz signal onto the grid of V1 and my scope on pins 5 & 6 of V3.  I then peaked the four IF transformer coils.  The IF cans in he Winterfest receiver were close to .455 kHz.  The coils in the junker were quite a bit out of tune.  

RECAP

On the first S-38E I assumed that I would have to change out all the electolytics and the older tubular capacitors.  So I did.   But with the second ("junker") S-38E  my replacement capacitors from Hayseed Hamfest had not yet arrived.  So I pulled out my Variac and made a somewhat hasty effort to re-form the original caps.   It seemed to work.  No smoke was released.  Nothing exploded.  There is no horrible hum.  But I could tell that all was not quite right.   The BFO really wasn't oscillating properly.   When the capacitor kit from Hayseed Hamfest arrived, I replaced all the caps.  The receiver works great -- including the BFO.   

Recapping in process.  Hayseed electrolytic in green can..  Old tubular caps being replaced by new yellow caps.  

Recapping completed   

ALIGNMENT OF THE JUNKER

Armed with my newfound knowledge of how to align an S-38E, I applied this skill to the junker and was able to get it aligned without difficulty.  

RE-STRINGING OF DIAL CORDS

On both of these S-38-Es there were dial string problems.  Interestingly, both problems were with the BANDSPREAD dial cord, NOT with the MAIN TUNING dial strings.  I see this as evidence that these receivers were used by ham radio operators.  You don't really need the bandspread to tune AM shortwave station, or AM broadcast band stations.  But novice ham radio ops would be frantically tuning that bandspread control up and down, wearing those dial springs out.  The Bandspread dial string on my Winterfest S-38E broke while I was turning it -- I replaced it but it is not really smooth, so I may try again.  The Bandspread dial on the junker broke also.  

Broken Bandspread string from Winterfest S-38E

Approximating the size for the replacement string

My re-stringing skills were better the second time around.  Tips:  use a small file to "roughen up" the spindle on the tuning knob (just the center of the spindle, so it will grab the cord better). Before installing, rub the new dial cord with an isopropyl alcohol pad, then run the string (still a a bit wet) several times over a piece of violin rosin.  This seemed to prep the dial cord well.  

Sometimes you need a bit more tension on the string to get the tuning spindle to grip properly.  Unlike the Drake 2-B, the S-38E does not have several hooks on which to attach the spring.  Not wanting to have to start all over just to add a bit more tension on the string, I came up with an easier solution:  Just put a few twists in the string near the spring by twisting the spring (with strings attached) around a few times.  Like this:  

You also need something that allows the indicator needle to grip the dial cord.  I cut open a short piec of heat-shrink tubing, put it over the cord at the desired spot, hit it with hot air,  then put a small dab of super glue at each end of the tubing. ( See above.)  This allowed the dial pointed to grip the cord very firmly.  Because you may need to move the red pointer during dial calibration (see above) I'd recommend NOT putting the drops of glue on the cord for the red pointer -- you may need to slide the red one up or down a bit. 

TUBES

On the Winterfest S-38E, the BFO had a very rough tone, making it impossible to copy SSB or even CW.  I thought it might be a bad set of filter caps, but after I replaced them, the problem was still there.  So I then replaced the tubes (warning -- that 50CS audio amplifier is expensive).  This fixed the problem 

The junker had original Hallicrafters tubes. 

LISTEN! 

Here are some YouTube videos of the S-38Es in action: